I believe everyone who can do so should travel the world. I traveled as a photographer and a writer. All my journeys have one thing in common: Travel is education. Travel, i believe, is the best way to acquire an education. When you stay at home, you miss out on the sensations you experience and the insights you gain when you travel. Why do I say that? Because it’s dimensional - You absorb the sights, the sounds and the smells of a place when you are there on the spot. You mingle with the people. You'll get a feeling for contemporary life that you simply can’t get at anywhere. I value that kind of education and so far, i have been pursuing it actively because i find it so stimulating. Every of my photography travel trip is like that - Memorable and Unforgettable, including my recent re-visit trip back to Taiwan. I went to Fuxing Township near Lugang in Taiwan visiting Mr Lin’s noodle place 林记手工面线. Mr Lin’s handmade thin noodles are one of the few remaining handmade noodle places in the Fuxing Township while rest of them has been replaced by the machinery. They pass down this ancient technique from generation to generation. I admire their spirit in keeping the ancient tradition unaffected by the society changes. 从台湾摄影回来已经快几天了, 短短几天, 怎会如此想念, 仍然萦绕在脑中, 久久不能忘怀. 六天的台湾行, 如同梦幻般, 飞快的逝去. 或许是因为欢乐, 或许是因为在台湾, 是我期待再次地回去的地方, 有一点是肯定的, 那就是我度过了幸福的六天, 因为幸福所以快乐, 因为快乐所以时间飞逝, 如梦随行. 这次台湾出行是一次历史之旅, 人文之旅, 生活之旅, 更是一次情感之旅. 真是个不虚此行的台湾之旅! 一碗好吃的面线, 取决于制面技艺. 好面希望自己就像从前的面线一样, 虽然细细长长不起眼, 却是如此自然地被吃进了每个人的肚子里, 进入了成千成万人的生活之中. 位于福兴村林厝头的林记, 配合古色古香的叁合院, 吸引全台的摄影爱好者, 前来猎取制面, 嗮面的美景, 成为福兴乡闻名的景点. 福兴乡曾有 10 馀户的制面人家, 如今只剩 2, 3 家仍以手工遵古法制. 我来这里除了拍照以外是用一种旅遊的心情来, 我想看这叁合院下的传统嗮面, 更想看店家对传统的坚持, 有他们的努力才能让现在的我看到这一切, 有机会到鹿港可以拨一点时间来福兴乡看看这美丽的面线, 绝对让你印象深刻. Lugang is near the ocean with the nice ocean breeze and plentiful sunshine which is very suitable in drying noodles. Fushing Township used to have more than 10 places in making handmade thin noodles. Fuxing is located across the river from the historic town of Lugang, once Taiwan’s second biggest city boasting a population of 200 000. For anyone who gets the chance to travel in this region, a visit to the traditional noodle maker is highly recommended. 面线是从清朝时期, 随著漳泉先民移入的. 西部滨海一带, 日照充足又有海风吹拂, 正适合制面, 嗮面所需的环境. 福兴乡在全盛时间曾有十多家手工面线厂, 如今大多为机械取代, 只剩林记手工面线. 林记现由 70 几岁的张玉枝, 与儿子林正义, 传承做面家业, 坚持手工, 慢工出细活的拉出古早的好味道. 这边位于小巷弄底, 车子是开不进来的, 如要过来请在外面停好车再步行进入, 林记手工制面厂是家不大的叁合院, 小小一个广场挤了不少摄影爱好者. 古老的传统手工面线与老旧的叁合院, 形成一副美丽的怀旧画面. 在这里看到的过程真的是第一次看见, 深深被那些面条给迷住了. 阳光一出来, 便赶忙伺候面线舒舒服服晒太阳. 三不五时, 还要为面线翻身, 真厚工. 空气的干溪, 阳光大小, 林家人笔比温度计更敏锐, 还要 '嗅出' 天气变化, 不然晒面线变成一团面线糊. Mr Lin told me that the reason in tying the bottom of the hanging noodles was because the bottom parts of the noodles were thinner than the top due to the hanging. Tying is to prevent the bottom part from being overexposed to the sun. The length of drying is also essential because it affects the texture of the noodles, not over or under dry and maintaining the humidity of the noodles! 近拍面线也有另一种美, 因为手工的关系有些因为拉扯而打结或断掉, 这就是传统的好, 每一个制造都是独一无二的. Traditional handmade Chinese noodles hanging out to dry. 拉面是需要二个人同心协力才有办法完成, 将面桿一侧插在洒面木架上, 林太太抓紧另一侧面桿, 林先生则一抖一甩的, 叁两下就拉出了细细长长的面线. 他们动作之快, 我还来不及看清楚, 他们就又进屋取出另一个面架, 接着又开始甩了起来. 他们两个进进出出, 来回走著, 一下子甩麵一下子移位置, 并不时查看每一掛面线的情形, 必要时再甩上一回, 十分的忙碌. 不过, 林先生和林太太的动作实在太迅速, 再加上移动位置太难捉摸, 一直在预测, 追赶及捕捉, 但又要避免干扰到他们工作的我, 似乎看起来比他们更加忙碌. Hundred of the noodles were pulled and hung in the courtyard which created an incredible scene! No wonder this is the photographers’ favorite place. 有阳光的日子, 林一家人忙进忙出, 在三合院舞弄白色银丝, 形成千丝万楼的壮观. 只要天气晴朗, 就可以看到林家的三合院稻上, 挂着一缕缕的细如发丝的白色面线. 在这里做面线, 已经有了百年的历史了, 就看一家人, 又是挂面, 又是撑竹竿, 不一会儿的功夫, 面线就窗布般的被挂了起来. 这一筐筐的面团条, 是林先生与太太早上五, 六点就开始上工的成果. 林先生一家人坚持以手工制造面线努力的维持延续着这古老的製面技术, 每个工序与过程, 都是用体力与汗水换取而来. The noodles pictured here are the 'misua' variety. Misua are thin, salted noodles made from wheat flour. They signify long life and hence are a traditional birthday food that can be found all over China, Taiwan and South-east Asia. Misua is easily cooked, taking less than two minutes in boiling water to be ready. Here in Taiwan, misua comes in two varieties – plain and brown. Plain is pretty self-explanatory, while brown sees the noodle steamed at high heat until it caramelizes to a brownish color. 迎风摇曳的细长面线, 虽细但很有轫性. 嗮面, 并不是让面线曝嗮在阳光下就好. 没嗮透怕腐坏, 嗮过久怕干烈, 还要注意是否嗮得平均, 而每批面线所需的曝面时不一, 要时时注意面线的湿度, 必要时还得进行位置的调整. 老奶奶 (林先生的妈妈) 熟练著整理风干中的面线. 老奶奶会一直注意面线目前的湿度情况, 会一直依照目前风干情况进行位置的调整. The dough is made with flour, rough salt, and water. It is cut, extruded, kneaded to the round threads afterwards. At the same time, Mr Lin fills the bamboo baskets by circling the threads. They get seated in the basket for the yeast process. Tons of baskets filled with threads were ready. Mr Lin started quickly to wound the threads in an “8” shape direction into a two parallel bamboo poles on the wall. After the wounding process was complete, he immediately sprinkled corn starch on top of the noodles to prevent the stickiness. The noodles were hung again after this process to allow the threads to drop down to the ground level. 林先生以飞快的速度, 将醒好的长条面团, 以八字形盘绕在二根面桿上, 进行捆面的动作. 捆好面条后, 要洒上米糠太白粉防止面条沾黏,然後掛至麵柜等待第二次醒面. 工作间小小的, 又密不通风, 我踏入就汗流不止, 全身又是白粉又是汗水的, 相机的观景窗都快看不清了. 林先生竟然完全没流汗, 而且他一点也不觉得闷热, 或许是早已习惯了吧. 面柜里的要静置一段时间, 等待第二次的醒面, 并让它受到重力的影响慢慢的拉长, 拉长至一定长度后, 才能开始进行下一个步奏: 拉面. 用高筋面粉, 粗盐与水叁种搅拌成的面团, 再将面团分块, 搓揉成圆条状, 盘在竹竿上静置一段时间, 待其醒面. 盐的作用, 是让面团有了更加的弹性, 以便之后能抽拉出更细的面线. “Handmade” products are hardly being found in the manufacturing world now. The handmade thin noodle has almost been replaced by the machine made. “Handmade” means value. It's not only presents the hard work but also brings out the person's persistency in keeping the traditional spirit.
手工面线的制作工作非常复杂, 必须要反复的做拉, 翻, 嗮以及阴干的工序, 加上水份太少容易断, 太多又会贴在一块, 所以这必需要有非常巨大的细心以及耐心, 除此之外, 天候的因素占了很重要的比例. 从搓面团,拉面丝, 嗮面线, 环环相扣, 一旦启动就不可能停下来. 这些手工面线, 都必须经过太阳的曝嗮蒸除水份之后, 才能完成. 万一遇到了坏天气, 可就苦了这些做手工面线的师博们, 就得在室内升起炭火烘干, 而且除了这样似乎也没有其他的方式可以保持面线的手工原味. 因阳光而散发著温暖色调的面线, 一丝丝一掛掛的, 宛若绸布般垂掛在叁合院的空地上. 经过半个早上的和面, 搓面, 捆面, 醒面, 拉面及嗮面等繁複的制程, 已风干的面线正等著入库包装, 进入最后一个步奏. 这代代相传的传统手工制面技艺, 在凡事讲求效率, 以机器代劳的时代, 早已逐渐没落,但位于彰化县福兴乡的 <林记手工面线> 却仍坚持用手工, 慢工出细活的拉出昔日的好味道. 那天我在福兴巷弄里的手工面线, 看著面线似雪丝舞动, 美极了! 传统的技艺要维持下去真的是很辛苦的, 要感恩的心, 感谢他们的坚持! Journey Back To Taiwan 不虚此行的台湾之旅 (2) - To be continued......
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