Puppets have forever entranced audiences by telling stories and re-enacting sacred texts, while educating and entertaining at the same time. Puppets have been found buried in ancient Chinese tombs and appear in different regions in different forms. Big or small, carved out of wood or made from leather or cloth, puppets can be operated by hand, rods or strings. In Taiwan, the Lin Liu-Hsin Puppet Theatre Museum 林柳新纪念偶戏博物馆 at Taipei is home to one of the world’s largest collections of Asian puppets with an emphasis on Taiwanese bu-dai-xi (glove or hand puppets) performances. Puppeteers manoeuvre glove puppets on ornate wooden stages to present historical and martial arts stories, including acrobatic stunts and plate-juggling tricks. The Lin Liu-Hsin Puppet Theatre Museum showcases puppetry as an important performing art in Taiwan and Asia. It’s a 4-floors museum with the history of puppetry, a functional, actively used workshop, an actual puppet show theatre, short-term exhibits, lots of artifacts and lots of puppets. Everything is very neatly presented with good commentary in Chinese and English (and a little Japanese). The collection of puppets is well chosen and introduces many interesting aspects of puppetry. 台湾人最熟悉的偶戏, 莫过于布袋戏. 掌中弄巧, 紧凑热闹, 戏偶们翻滚, 打斗, 四处征战的气势, 让街头巷尾如癡如醉, 欲罢不能. 许多人聊起布袋戏, 总是口沫横飞, 兴致盎然. 在台北市的西宁北路上, 有一栋复古的建築物 "林柳新纪念偶戏博物馆", 小小的, 一点都不起眼, 不过一旦注意到它, 就会无法停止按下快门. 台北俗就是这样, 从来都不知道有这么酷的地方可以来长见闻. 林柳新纪念偶戏博物建築本身更是超过 80 年的历史建築, 馆内偶戏蒐藏来自世界各地, 数量超过一万多件, 为台湾与世界上少有具全面性的偶戏文化据点, 发掘偶戏艺术之美, 赋予偶戏的新生命, 开创传统与现代及国际接轨结合的偶戏剧场及活动, 让偶戏博物馆成为亚洲偶戏发展的平台. 为了达到亚洲最大偶戏博物馆的目标, 林柳新纪念偶戏博物馆早已跟世界接轨, 除了展出台湾传统布袋戏外, 亦加插越南, 柬埔寨等亚洲地区的偶戏展览. 他们是世界上收藏越南水傀儡最完整的博物馆之一. 林柳新纪念偶戏博物馆是时间与空间的痕迹, 文化与生活的态度, 全都被收纳在这座美丽的老建築里. With fingers, strings or shadows, one can cover the gamut from joy, anger and sadness to delight, greed, fury and folly. Puppetry often entrances people, making one wonder: Who are the puppets and who is really alive? Those onstage or those sitting down in front? The Lin Liu-Hsin Puppet Theatre Museum creates this kind of mesmerizing world of illusion. 我喜欢林柳新纪念偶戏博物馆所在的这栋街屋, 保存得很好, 外墙米色砖非常好看, 叁栋相连的建築对衬结构, 兴建时期应该略晚于迪化街的街屋. 墙壁下层是洗石子, 上层则是与外墙相同的米色砖, 清绿色窗户与门看似与米色砖有强烈的对比, 却呈现一种特殊的味道. When you enter the museum, you'll seem to have slipped out of the hustle and bustle of contemporary Taipei into a space out of time, where reality and illusion intertwine. 在台湾, 看过偶戏不稀罕, 看师傅巧手打造人偶才稀罕. 一走进偶戏馆, 左手边就是一扇大窗, 窗后便是戏偶工坊. 一块块颜色深浅不一的木头, 在这里渐渐成为五官灵动, 线条活泼的偶头, 参观者可以在这里瞭解一尊戏偶的完成, 师傅也会回答观众的提问. 透过这个工坊, 博物馆明确地开放了交流的可能, 让抽象的知识与文化成为可触摸的具体经验, 同时提示参观者, 这是个动态的空间, 可别只是呆呆张望. 这就是正在制作人偶的工作室, 有真人实作喔!配合著里面的复古器材和真实感相当强的电器用品, 彷彿让你走入另一个时空. 旁边工作室的墙面, 就是整片的人偶, 各式各样男男女女, 为人偶著装赋予它们不同的个性与故事, 多有趣的工作. These puppets have tons of history and were an essential part of Chinese / Taiwanese daily life. The amount of details and care used to create each puppet is a work of art and an example of master craftsmanship. The older puppets faces are wood based and each is uniquely carved giving it truly its own unique character. Along with the faces, elaborate clothing and transport boxes were also custom built for the “actors”. Shows were a big deal featuring intricately built stages and even a supporting band for background music. 还有一些小布景,呈现这些人偶是怎么用绳子来操作的. 上二楼就会看到这个很奇怪的地方, 叫做 "醜容院". 不是 "美" 容院, 为什麽叫醜容院呢? 因为希望每个人进入这个醜容院的化妆间, 把自己打扮成为一个丑角, 带来内心的美化. 我看到后台化妆间的时候, 被炫目的灯光吸引. 当我还在新奇, 跟笑得合不拢嘴的时候, 醜容院不只让人看到创意的搞醜, 更让人去思索当我们被醜陋又滑稽的丑角逗得哈哈大笑的时候, 这些笑, 更深层的意义. 我们是不是总是笑些又笨又醜的角色, 为什么我们会因此而笑呢?过去是不是都把白癡智障与好笑画等号, 当我们笑的时候, 其实是因为看到别人的不幸, 所产生的优越感? 丑角代表自私与忽略一切的小孩, 我们每个人里面还有这样的小孩, 但他被礼仪还有社会的规矩压抑. 我们为什么永远需要喜剧, 或许就是这样的原因, 我们需要藉由一个角色的管道来宣洩. 如果生活太苦闷, 那么也至少还有喜剧可以让我们发笑. 虽然馆内空间真的很小, 几乎没有多馀的空位, 但竟然还出现了这种充满古早味的留白墙面, 鲜豔的一抹红豔, 教人无法移开视线.馆内其实不大, 但是每个角落和墙面都精緻地使用了偶戏的条件. 置身馆内, 阳光穿透桧木方格窗的老玻璃, 在墙壁上折射出柔软的光影. 沿著洗石子楼梯慢慢往上走, 各个楼层分别展示了布袋戏, 铁枝傀儡, 皮影戏, 杖头傀儡, 越南水傀儡, 面具等亚洲传统偶戏珍品, 虽然空间不大, 但展场充分保留建築物的本色, 搭配具体而微的文字说明, 无论大人小孩, 都能从中获得知识与趣味. 目前馆内收藏有全世界最大的广东杖头傀儡, 在闽南布袋戏, 印尼皮影戏, 广东杖头傀儡等部分也有齐全的收藏, 目前正逐步扩充泰国皮影, 中国皮影, 越南傀儡等亚洲重要的偶戏藏品. 布袋戏的剧本, 诉说许多故事的布袋戏偶. 小型的演出场地及中国, 世界各国偶戏展览. The advent of TV has seriously compromised the future of puppet troupes, but Asian puppets have found an adoring foreign following. Thanks to the patronage of visitors, this form of art is seeing a healthy revival and puppets are even venturing abroad to showcase their country’s culture. While the museum main focus is about puppets in Taiwan, other parts of Asia are also well represented. There are fantastic, beautiful hand made puppets from China and marionettes from India and Burma. The museum highlights that puppetry is a very rich and diverse art form in Asia. With numerous exquisite and antique puppets, stages, artifacts and photographs, the Lin Liu-Hsin Puppet Theatre Museum is a voyage through puppet theatre and social history, as well as an aesthetic pleasure. It is a great place for anyone to enjoy while visiting Taipei.
座落于传统街屋内的偶戏博物馆, 展览分布于四层楼的建築中. 沿著窄小陡峭的洗石子楼梯一层层探访偶戏的世界, 颇有步入时光遂道的趣味. 这里不但展示着台湾民间的传统布袋戏, 也看得到来自世界各地的特色偶戏文化, 堪称台湾最有特色, 也是世界上少见的主题博物馆. 戏, 总有结束的时候, 典藏却没有终点, 也看不到尽头. 走进林柳新纪念偶戏博物馆, 人们内心真正渴望的绝对不是布料, 药材与干货, 而是一个可以探望历史, 参与过去的机会. Journey Back To Taiwan 不虚此行的台湾之旅 (12) - To be continued......
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