If you are tired of the temples and gardens of Kyoto and want a glimpse of everyday Kyoto life, a walk down Nishiki-koji (Nishiki market) will surely refresh your spirits. Located in central Kyoto, the narrow street, conveniently covered for the rain, has been supplying Kyoto’s residents with high-quality traditional ingredients for centuries. Although its present form and location is from the late 16th century, the market has been in place since the Middle Ages. I always like to head straight to the markets and food enclaves when I arrive in a new city; it’s the pulse of how people live and how the food culture is surviving the perils of supermarkets and industrial food. Kyoto is known for its many culinary delicacies, and you'll find most of them at Nishiki. Meandering through the arcade one can easily be overwhelmed by the sights, the sounds and the smells of the market. Most people call this place ‘Kyoto’s Kitchen’ and you can see why with its specialist stalls bustling in activity and with fascinating displays of artisan produce and fresh local bounty; from glistening fresh seafood pristinely displayed to every imaginable dried fish and seafood, an extraordinary kaleidoscope of pickled vegetables and handmade sweets, and all the seasonal foods and specialties that the historical Kyoto cuisine is renowned. 在每次出行的线路安排中,我总会将一些农贸市场、菜场集市、卖场超市顺带一并列入行程中,边走边吃边看的同时,也能更深入这个城市日常生活的点点滴滴。原本京都的锦市场和大坂的黑门市场都在我的行程单上,后来在大坂逛街逛到失控,没能来得及逛上黑门市场,锦市场就成了本次关西行中唯一一个顺利走完的综合性集市。“食物的味道” 常常是一段旅行记忆最深刻的部分。 说到京都,就不能错过号称 “京都厨房” 的锦市场。拥有四百年历史的京都人的厨房–锦市场,京都必访旅遊人气景点之一,且有京都厨房之美誉,聚集上百家的店舖,闹哄哄热闹非凡的商店街,集具了各种生鲜食材、传统小吃、菓子杂货等,除了是外来遊客最爱到访的地方,也是京都市民爱逛的市集之一。 我是一个特别喜欢逛当地大小市场的人,每到一个地方都想要探寻个究竟,也是我最直接熟悉当地人环境的最好地方。在这里逛着,可以看到除了料理的食材以外,还能处处能见到京都茶及和果子。要不是急着拍照就可以买了在店门口即时享用,散步在那里的时候随时都会看到随买随吃的片段。看着人们吃着美味的欢乐表情自己也开始幸福起来了。所以说,好吃的美味都是要趁着热吃才会新鲜美味。 人生也是如此啊,彼时遇到了那抹美好便一点要把握到才是。 Nishiki's history dates back to several hundred years ago. The first store (fish store) opened around 1300. Therefore many stores have been in operation by the same families for generations until today. The area is said to have been chosen as a site for a market because of its springs of fresh groundwater that make the stockpiling of fish very convenient and also eased the transportation and delivery of food to the Imperial Palace. It didn't become a full-fledged market for a while, but in the Edo period (1600-1868), Nishiki became a proper fish market, with several wholesale fish stores operating as the feudal government designated the market as a registered wholesale fish vendor (even today, the most common stores are fish shops). 今天所看到的锦市场其实是1993年改建完工而成,其彩色玻璃天顶的加盖,让市场的经营完全不受天气影响,并且冬暖夏凉。京都的料理自成一派,高级如怀石,朴实如野菜、豆腐料理,各有精致风骨三分,如果要说京都人日常饮食生活,不用去打探他们的厨房餐桌,只须逛一趟市中心着名的锦市场,就可一窥究竟。 Most of the tiny storefront shops are open by mid-morning, although professional chefs frequent the fish purveyors early to pick the best of the day’s catch. By lunchtime, the market is in full swing, and mouth-watering aromas and mind-boggling sights await at every turn. As most of the stores open in the morning, and the market goes in full swing, nice aromas and vigorous sights await you at every corner. Prices might be a bit higher than in neighborhood supermarkets but the difference is in the freshness and quality. The taste says it all. Fishmongers are barking out "Irasshaimase" (welcome!), while the lively chatter of housewives provides an auditory backdrop. The enticing aromas of roasted tea and chestnuts waft through the air, competing with deep-fried soy milk doughnuts and freshly grilled unagi. The sensory input may be intense, but a trip to Nishiki is a must for any food afficianado visiting Kyoto. 诺长的锦市场,林立着京都风味的熟食、蔬菜生食、渍物、鱼货干物、调味料、杂货、家庭用品也样样不少,有寻宝的乐趣。 This centuries-old covered market in the heart of Kyoto has two types of shops, and two types of shoppers. The first category caters to locals: homemakers, chefs and cooks. Those who know the market as 'Kyoto’s kitchen' know it inside out, patronize their regular shops and treat the market as if were their pantry. The other category of shops caters to the growing legion of tourist shoppers who stop and start every few meters, cameras and guidebooks to the ready, turning the journey of 400 meters into something like 400 km. 市场内保持着日本人一贯的干净整洁,没有一丝腥味,货品摆放整齐、光鲜亮丽,逛起来赏心悦目,令人直吞口水。市场上方有遮雨棚,所以如果遇上恶劣的天气不适宜户外活动,倒不妨来着逛逛,既不用担心淋湿也不会浪费时间。京野菜、京渍物、生麸、汤叶、鱼浆炸物、栗子、和菓子、甜点等等,从视觉、嗅觉与味觉一次满足。在此感受京都市井生活气氛,同时也是体验异国文化的难得机会。 锦市场虽然叫做市场,其实相当于商店街,没有传统市场给人的杂乱之感,相反每家店都有前铺、店堂、制作区、库房,整体环境整洁清爽,同时又极富生活气息。 Nishiki’s charm is in its immediacy. There are a few hundred shops, some no bigger than a kitchen, crammed into the long, narrow cavern, which runs parallel to Shijo-dori. The two streets are like chalk and cheese. Where Shijo-dori is lined with luxury stores, banks and chain shops, Nishiki is all hustle and bustle. Tsukemono are Japanese pickles. They are served with steamed rice as a small side dish to accompany or as a garnish for meals. Although only a few pieces or a small portion of tsukemono is served with rice, it is a critically important element in Japanese dishes. Most common kinds of tsukemono are pickled radish, leaf vegetables, cucumber, eggplant in salt. You will see many large barrels filled with tsukemono in many shops in the market. Competition for your senses is everywhere. The air is filled with the smell of fresh fish, pickled vegetables, roasted chestnuts, ground sesame and tofu doughnuts, as well as cries from the workers pounding mochi (rice cakes) and people speaking in all kinds of tongues. Nishiki is where you’ll find an A-Z of what goes into washoku (Japanese cuisine). 不少店家的面积都不小,有前铺、店堂、制作区、库房等,整体环境整洁清爽。 As the history of Nishiki Ichiba explains, there are about 20 fish stores in the market. Each store offers the freshest fish and seafood of the day and shop people heartily welcome and try to attract customers passing in front of their stores. From raw fish in whole to pieces of ready-to-cook fish, there are a wide range of seasonal fish at the front. Some shops offer small pieces of seasoned raw fish (sashimi) on skewers to go, which are absolutely fresh! 在日本酒文化中,常见的酒类有清酒、烧酒和啤酒,日本人最常喝酒的地方便是居酒屋。自古以来,日本人最喜欢清酒却是名不虚传。在市场里可以看到各种品类的日本酒。 清酒是用秋季收获的大米,在冬季经发酵后酿成的。日本的森林孕育了丰富的水源,为生产优质名酒提供了良好的环境。 As at any good food market, the produce keeps pace with the seasons. Early autumn is the time for two of Kyoto’s (and Japan’s) seasonal favorites: chestnuts and mushrooms. Be warned: The mushrooms are a delicacy in the same league as truffles; you’ll need to raid your bank account (or a bank), so it might be best to just settle on the chestnuts. 这座市场的来头不小,里面的商店也都是颇具年纪的老店,如果对日本的美食文化有异于常人执念者,一踏进这个市场你就出不来了,你会每家店都想逛逛,都想沾沾边,据说美食猎人姊姊跟大哥人一到这个贵宝地就耗了一整天。 除了可以买回家料理用的材料和调料,在市场里也有一些熟食可以买来现吃,都是一些比较有特色的小吃。 The best way to get through Nishiki is to simply graze your way along. Many of the shops offer free samples, especially those selling tsukemono. My advice: Try everything — it won’t kill you. As I ate my way into the depths of Nishiki Market and sat down for lunch, i had expanded my own appreciation of this taste so prevalent in Kyoto's food history. I'll come away from the walk not only appreciating the market itself but with the tools to gain a deeper understand of Kyoto's culinary offerings.
For visitors to Kyoto without their own refrigerator, it might be unrealistic to stock up on seafood items, but that needn’t stop you from picking up takotamago, a quail egg embedded in octopus. This skewer dish is miniature-sized, but so much is squeezed into it — just like Nishiki Market. 在锦市场可以看到京都人具有美感与季节感的生活步调,当季的京野菜及渍物在这里以自然的型态完全展现,让漫步其中变成一种享受,这里的物价比起市价要便宜许多,买一些熟食在旅行途中享用。。。就是最道地的京都滋味。。。 或许,在这里,那些商家们都是保持着内心的宁静,孜孜不倦的努力经营,不忘从商的诚信根本,才让锦市场保持如此长久的繁荣。总体来说,在日本旅游相较于欧美国家,如果你不要求太奢侈的花费的话还是可以很节省的,相较于东京来说,京都也较为便宜但是比大阪神户贵一些。在日本你会发现吃饭购物和住宿都不贵,是个逛街的好地方呢。
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