Kyoto is famous for 300-year-old Geisha tradition. There are about 250 Geishas in Kyoto city – they are popularly called Geiko and Maiko (the apprentice Geisha) in Kyoto – and 100 of them are registered in Gion, the most prestigious geisha community. Gion is also the district name where many houses served tea to people who visited Yasaka shrine in the old days and later they added attractions of singing and dancing to entertain those people. That is the origin of Geisha in Gion. There may have been 80,000 geisha shuffling about in the 1920s, but today, less than 2,000 remain in Japan. The odds were slim but i was hopeful. Indeed, my wish came true. This is a rare experience that you won't find anywhere else. Geishas and Maiko alike are a cultural mystery to foreigners, and even most Japanese. Few people get to meet one or even seen a real Geisha in the flesh. I had a chance to meet some which was definitely a highlight of my recent trip to Japan. I was lucky to get a glimpse of the jewel in the crown of Japan. Maiko and Geiko are a mystery even to Japanese. However don't worry too much if you don’t, as the district’s sights, sounds and shopping are like a glimpse into old Japan that you will never forget. The Geisha sighting would just be the cherry on top. 一条已经千年的步道,一名艺妓踩着小碎步在石板上疾步行走,这是许多旅客到日本京都若遇到,一定会拿起相机捕捉的画面。然而,艺妓世界的细腻神秘,却总令人无从了解得知。 祇园是京都繁华区的代表地段,以观赏舞妓或艺妓舞艺的 “花街” 闻名。祇园作为艺妓花街文化的发源地,而花见小路则是其中的代表,在花街全盛时期光是茶屋就高达700间舞妓、艺妓的人数将近三千人,时至今日虽已盛况不再,但此地仍然是京都最热闹的区域之一,也只有在这里才有机会碰上艺妓的身影,尤其是从四条通至建仁寺这段区间的花见小路通更是热闹非凡。 祇园是京都最着名的艺妓区,它的历史可追溯到封建时期, 也是京都市中最受欢迎的观光点之一,这区在八坂神社 前于四条大街和鸭川之间,有多间茶室、电影院、商店和餐厅, 沿着花见小路漫步,欣赏两旁的美丽古建筑甚而还可能在街上看到舞妓。 In Kyoto, which is considered the home of the Geisha, the most famous district to go and see Geisha's is the Gion, where you will find many Okiya, the homes of Geishas. This is old Kyoto, where the streets are lined with traditional machiya houses, stone walkways and traditional lanterns lining the way. These traditional buildings look small from the front, however this is based on the fact that they used to base property tax on the street frontage of your building, so although they look small from the front, most of them stretch far, far back. 小路则日本传统花街;茶舍,料理亭, 满街飘逸着花街情趣,舖着整齐的石板道,充满古典风味。这里有许多茶舍,而且并没有任何现代建筑,这是一条被完整保留原貎的小区,每当夜色低垂是这里最为迷人的时段,两旁传统木建筑悬挂着灯笼,散发出暗淡柔光,使古老的日本奇迹似地复见眼前。 This district is a must-see while in Kyoto, day or night, however at night the Gion is a beautiful site in dimmed light from lanterns and the traditional buildings, it feels like being taken back into the ancient Japan. Wandering the streets of Gion, the narrow streets and side alleys ways were inviting in their subdued orange glow – igniting a well-known district in a layer of mystery. Blood-red lanterns with their pretty dove patterns marked out traditional teahouses, restaurants buzzed with the low hum of customers and the laughter of businessmen echoed in the secretive air, which whispered nothing except curiosity in a place where you wandered slowly and paused only in hope of a sighting, before moving on. Hanamikoji Street 花见小路。 祗园的特点是其传统木制的町屋建造风格,由于物业税是依房子对着街的阔度而计算,所以房子的结构是窄而深。 巷道里的商家,同样都是浓浓古意的木造建筑,也让这条花见小路,成为京都指定的历史景观保全修景地区。格子式的木造建筑,更衬托出古都的典雅韵味。 Ventured through the alleyways away from the tourists and was rewarded with spotting two maiko, in their opulent kimono, leaving one building and walking into another. 我觉得很有趣的是,碰见艺妓这件事情对我来说,就像是在打地鼠一样,大型版的打地鼠。因为你永远永远不知道是不是在下一个巷口就会碰到艺妓。 They truly are a great spectacle. Centuries old form of entertainment, Geisha and Maiko are performing artists in Japan held to high esteem – female entertainers who are not only hostesses, but also classical musicians and dancers. Some begin their daily training at a very early age, whilst others choose to enter the profession later in life. Either way, you train for life, unless you leave your Okiya – the place where you live, train and are indebted to under contract. Geisha normally have more subdued and less elaborate clothing, hair and makeup, whereas Maiko are more colourful and bold – the robe is usually patterned, hangs low at the nape of the neck and the obi (the waist tie decoration) is normally more embellished and long, sometimes hanging as low as the ankles. They are striking and not easy missed. 在花见小路看到的艺伎和舞伎的差别是什么呢?舞伎是还在见习时期的艺伎,所以年纪较轻,头发也全用真发梳成,而艺伎则是会全脸都涂满白色,头发以真发搭配假发的大发髻为主。且艺伎的鞋子底较厚,舞伎则多穿高度一般的鞋子。 Seeing Geisha is not guaranteed and if you are successful with a sighting, it will most likely be that of a Maiko. As many local people told me: “you have to be lucky” and that’s really what it is. Hired to attend parties and private gatherings at ochaya (teahouses) and ryōtei (traditional Japanese restaurants), no one knows where a Geisha will be called to work and the exclusivity of their company means they are not a common sight. Not only do you have to pay the equivalent of hundreds or even thousands of dollars but, in many cases, you must be invited by another person. Therefore, to behold one within the old streets of the ‘Geisha District’ of Gion in Kyoto, as they make their way to work, is a very special sight indeed. 祗园另一景色优美的地方是白川运河,运河两旁种满柳树,有多间高级餐馆和茶屋,其中几间可俯瞰运河,由于离开大街有一点距离,比花见小路那边来得恬静,也更充满季节气氛。 Kyoto – a place identified not only with the ‘old’ Japan and UNESCO World Heritage temples, but also with the most beautiful and revered entertainer of all – the Geisha. The area is still very much steeped in tradition and culture, something to appreciate and admire in this day and age.
Seeing a Geisha, or a Maiko, really made my time in Kyoto. Not only was it a dream come true, but the electric atmosphere the Maiko’s presence created was something that will stay with me always. Whether you have a vested interested in seeing one of these special entertainers or not, it’s an insight into an incredible preserved Japanese tradition that creates as much a mystifying culture for us as it does for the people they entertain. 短短几个小时的祇园散策,遊走在古老的巷道之中,还是体验了老京都的木造建筑之美,花街里的奇人韵事,在古朴与现代交杂的京都,将会继续流传。 Comments are closed.
|
Author
|