Here goes the much awaited Part 1 of my recent trip to Taiwan: A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan - Shenkeng Tofu Old Street 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - 深坑豆腐老街.
The theme / purpose of the first few blog posts on my recent Taiwan trip is not really to research histories of the old buildings in the photos, but rather piece together what is left at these Old Streets now and then, i.e. travel back in time. If you want to look back on the bygone days of Taiwan, these Old Streets in the first few parts of my Taiwan travel blog posts will lead you to travel through the time tunnel back to 100 years ago. These Old Streets in Taiwan are a tourist avenue where a glossy, embalmed wedge of the past is preserved. The buildings along Shenkeng Old Street are not that old but some of them are several hundred years old from the Qing Dynasty. I hope you will enjoy travelling back in time by browsing my photos and reading my stories in the upcoming blog posts on my recent trip to Taiwan!
现在台湾各乡镇都在发展老街, 有的发展得很有特色, 有的已经可以吸引无数的人潮, 展现无比的商机, 变得热闹非凡, 一扫老街没落的形象, 变成人们休閒观光的好去处. 有很多人, 只是喜欢热闹, 喜欢往人潮多的地方去挤，吃吃喝喝, 逛了半天, 最后也不知道老街的特色在那里.
我喜欢探访老街，主要是想透过老街的巡礼，了解当地人过去的生活，捕捉一点残留的人文风貌. 每个人都有旅行的梦想, 有人喜爱跳上列车, 北上南下在轰隆作响的车厢里探寻环岛的乐趣, 有的爱往深山荒野走去, 越刺激的地域越有旅行的价值. 还有一种人, 喜爱在时光迁移的轨迹之外, 偷得记忆留下的證证据, 与老地方来场叙旧的旅行.
台湾北中南东各有特色且年份久远的建築与景点, 这些存在已久, 拥有好几世代共同回忆的地点, 无论是老街风华, 飘香一甲子的路边美味, 废弃後重生的日式房舍, 历久弥新的观光景点或者是改头换面的旧厂房, 都让人为之惊豔, 透过一次又一次的小旅行, 以悠闲的心情重温旧梦或者在老旧故事里, 重新诠释自己的记忆.
这次短短几天假期走访老街, 任时光倒流, 远离尘嚣, 享受与世隔绝的祥和宁静. 此外, 因应季节而生的时节活动, 像与大自然一起在四季中跑趴, 无时无刻都有不同的特色人文活动. 老物, 可以新创, 老宅, 也能再生, 但老地方的风情却是一种累积. 它不只有历史的轨迹, 生活的闲情, 还有生命的厚度.
旅行, 其实可以很简单, 不需要太多的理由与藉口, 只需凭藉一丝丝的小衡动, 选好想去的地点, 抛开恼人的世俗与烦忧, 跟随书中景点, 追寻那份属于自己, 独一无二的老地方, 慢时光. 在台湾, 还有许多特色的 "老地方", 都值得一访, 不管是与家人, 朋友或是自己来个放松之旅, 趁著假日的时后, 走访这些老地方, 一起来享受浪漫幸福的慢时光. 如果您跟我一样,喜欢这样的怀旧风情, 邀请您和我一起体验台湾迷人的老地方!
在台湾, 以"豆腐" 产业闯出名号的地方不多, 最知名的要属台北县的深坑了. 深坑以豆腐打飨观光知名度, 深坑老街更是人们心目中品尝豆腐美味的最佳去处, 在这儿就有条可以媲美深坑老街的豆腐街. 每逢周休假期, 深坑老街便湧进大批遊客, 只为感受豆腐街魅力. 台北是一个盆地, 四周青山环绕, 而深坑位于河边, 地势更低, 犹如坑底, 因此而得名 "深坑".
Step into a world of tofu and challenge your taste buds for one of the most original Taiwanese food Shenkeng has to offer. Shenkeng Tofu Street, as its name suggests, is famous for their tofu. Not only will you see the original tofu in its actual shape and size, there are many variations and food items that have tofu in it. It is definitely a one of a kind experience when you have an entire day to yourself, just by trying out tofu, from ordinary tofu, stinky tofu, dry tofu to even ice cream tofu! A unique taste for every kind of tofu items and be sure to try them all out!
This place is also known as 深坑老街.
Over the past two years, the old red-brick houses lining this street have received a major facelift and the street is now attractively clean and tidy. While sampling Shenkeng’s famous beancurd dishes, visitors can now also examine the meticulously restored old houses and get a feel for old-time Taiwan. Shenkeng is yet another example of how many “old streets” in towns and cities around Taiwan have been successfully made more attractive in recent years by restoring old architecture and reviving old traditions.
深坑老街至今已达有90年以上的历史, 不论老街的历史建筑或是美食小吃, 皆彻底展现出台湾早期的传统特色风味, 也因此如此, 总是吸引不少从国外的游客们到此参访, 拍照留念. 深坑老街已陪伴过许多人走过无数的历史岁月, 从这些许传统的美食小吃当中, 能够让更多人深深追念往昔景况.
Spending a few hours at the Skenkeng Old Street will be more than enough time to take in all the tofu goodness. It is barely 4 meters wide with both side of the street lined with eateries that serve tofu. Some of the eateries are 20 to 30 years old and boast the expertise in transforming an everyday food item into a gourmet dish.
A very open mind is required for the stinky bean curd adventure and better to try this delicacy where it’s the best, ‘The Tofu Capital’. Just in case stinky is not part of your menu there are the other tofu varieties to try. This old street will be kept as is and worth a visit just to experience the sight and smell.
深坑最知名乃豆腐, 独特之处在于有股特殊焦味, 以手工盐滷取代一般的石膏製作, 使得做出来的豆腐有股特殊焦味, 让人吃了之后仍然口齿留香, 后来经过媒体披报, 使得独具风味的深坑豆腐享富盛名. 尤其北二高连络道直通深坑, 加以木栅猫览营运后, 每逢假日更是车水马龙, 遊客络绎不绝於途.
走在深坑老街上, 豆腐店一家挨一家, 口味和吃法也是推陈出新. 而且居然还有阵阵的臭豆腐的味道传来, 据说口味浓重的麻辣臭豆腐在台北很受欢迎.
The very word “Tofu” often is associated with a feeling of sacrificing any love of food for a very healthy yet very bland alternative. Little do some individuals know, that not only tofu can be healthy, it can also be dripping with flavor and spice. In Taiwan, it’s definitely not the plain-jane vegetarian food that its stereotype represents. And that’s an understatement. At Shenkeng Old Street, you will find a hidden gem of an old street, where you will not only find arguably best tofu in Taiwan, you can also experience a very local snack street in the most Taiwanese of ways.
This is a street that could’ve been called “The Traditional Tofu Street”. If seeing is believing, then I now know that tofu can not only be stinky, it can also be dressed in peanut sauce, hot sauce, and deep-fried like hash browns. But more incredibly, tofu can be made into a soft ice-cream cone, complete with many varieties of flavours.
There is regular tofu, stinky tofu, dessert tofu, fried stinky tofu, BBQ stinky tofu, tofu cheese, and tofu cake. Let’s also not forget tofu drink, dried tofu, as well as tofu ice cream - you name it, they sell it.
深坑老街街道很窄, 人群却熙熙攘攘, 人们在品尝着各种风味的豆腐和小吃时, 也回味着这里的过去. 据说日本统治时期, 这里非常繁华热闹, 甚至还有戏院. 现在老街的部分店面都还保存了当初的建筑的风貌, 这里有很多店家都是几代人在这里经营, 象以怀旧为主题的六婶婆豆腐餐厅, 建筑外观保留传统特色, 在老街上颇为醒目.
You just see so much while strolling down the atmospheric narrow lanes. Rambling along Shenkeng Old Street, tourists will feel as if they were in a street of the ancient times. It is paved by the granite slab, long and narrow, with many lanes crisscrossing each other, is very convenient to reach any corner of its nearby places. Row upon row of shops built along the street orderly, all half-timbered and covered by grey tiles. Beautiful carvings are found on the windows and door lintels of the street shops. Most of the shops on the street have several doors to be walked through to reach the last rooms, their passageways are narrow but there are dooryards for lighting.
在逛深坑老街的途中, 别只顾著欣赏一楼店面的美食喔. 其实抬头望望, 这里也保有很传统的古早式建築, 红砖及窗式的独特闽南风味, 值得保留及细访.
深坑老街在众多的老街中, 并不算很长的一段街路或著也没有很多在地景点可以边走边玩, 但在这里能感受到很浓及原始的人情古早味, 依旧保有早期建築的街巷. 虽被现代化的摊位店面包围, 但仍能从其中感受到深坑独有的在地风貌.
我闲步在石板路上, 很轻松自在. 街景颇令人耳目一新, 红砖的外墙, 石板的街道, 骑楼上一道道廊柱, 拱门, 看起来很有古樸的味道.
深坑老街除了最知名的臭豆腐, 还有粽子, 草仔粿, 花生糖等传统糕点, 甚至创新的豆腐冰淇淋, 豆腐起士蛋糕等, 看了就能让人垂涎叁尺. 老街中段的商家兼卖童玩, 手工艺品, 可以买回家留些个纪念.
As you continue to walk through the Shenkeng old street, there are numerous other shops selling everything from soup tonics, to hand crafts. The atmosphere at Shenkeng definitely has a rustic charm to it. Combined with the historical buildings and mountainous backdrop it makes for a great break from the hectic city life in Taipei city.
走访深坑老街之馀, 老街上的文物, 古旧建築正倾说著深坑以往的繁华景象, 在满足口腹之慾之后, 多花点时间用点心思细细品味, 来一趟老街怀旧之旅, 更能丰富遊客的心灵. 挑个日子, 来深坑走走吧! 感受四处飘香的豆腐香味, 品嚐在地美味小吃, 悠哉的漫步深坑老街中, 体会美食及古早老街的独有风情.
每一条老街都建构出几乎雷同的旧时代空间: 红砖墙, 水泥色的柱子, 石雕的牌楼, 老旧的戏院, 以及各式小吃店和传统冰店. 这一切, 都让我们在快速现代化的虚无中, 突然找到一种依靠. 深坑老街也是, 从观光客的角度来看, 深坑老街算是一条成功的老街, 以豆腐为招牌, 加上粽子, 各式酱菜, 麻油等, 房屋的外观经过修缮, 保留了古色古香的气息. 遊客到这里, 确实可以感受到古色古香的气息.
If you thought you know a lot about tofu, then before you say it, take that random trip to Shenkeng Old Street and then decide for yourself, exactly how well do you know about tofu? Do you really understand its potential? The Taiwanese sure do and on Shenkeng old street, they’ve really mastered it. And while taking a stroll along the Shenkeng Old Street, you’ll find there’s more to it than just tofu.
Furthermore, as Shenkeng lies just a stone’s throw away from mountains, there are also paths that will lead you into the mountains to allow you to taste a few gulps of fresh air. All this said, the main reason for going to Shenkeng is the food, namely tofu. Even if you are not exactly crazy about the stuff, the trip is definitely worth it as a great cultural experience in a pleasant, almost rural area. It's imperative you come have a look. A visit to this ancient Shenkeng Tofu Old Street is truly unforgettable.
Part 2 - A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - To be continued.....
A freelance Singapore-based travel photographer / photojournalist. I seek the extraordinary, but finds beauty in the everyday. Life is interesting, capture it.
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