Here goes the Part 3 of my recent trip to Taiwan: A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan - Yingge Pottery Old Street 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - 鶯歌陶瓷老街.
For the past two centuries, Yingge has been known as the ceramics center of Taiwan. The town’s cobblestone-lined Yingge Old Street 鶯歌陶瓷老街, Japanese colonial-era architecture and world-class ceramics museum are all especially picturesque in the autumn sunshine.
Yingge 鶯歌 is a beautiful little area known island-wide for its traditional pottery. The cobblestone streets of Yingge have been attracting lovers of pottery for over two centuries. According to local tradition, the seeds of Yingge’s flagship industry were planted when a potter from Guangzhou Province, Wu An settled in the area 200 years ago. The abundant forests and ample coal deposits around Yingge provided plenty of fuel for kilns and the city is still known for the manufacture of plumbing fixtures and cable insulators, as well as the abundance of ceramic dishware, fine-art pieces and kitsch available for tourists to purchase.
Meaning "parrot song", the name of the town is derived from the parrot shaped rock outcropping slightly north of the town. Pottery and ceramic fanatics will love Yingge. The town lies roughly an an hour south of Taipei by train, and is famous for it's high concentration of potters and ceramic makers.
鶯歌陶瓷老街, 它因陶瓷而兴盛, 也因陶瓷而闻名. 回首莺歌两百年, 在历史巨轮的转动中, 由早期粗陶器的制作, 一直到跃升为台湾陶瓷重镇. 默默耕耘的陶工师傅, 将莺歌陶瓷点土成金, 也造就莺歌成为台湾陶瓷工业发展史上不可抹灭的地位.
位於台北县莺歌镇的的陶瓷老街, 陶瓷艺术闻名, 这里的老街风格, 跟一般我们认知的老街印象, 相差满大的, 因为这里街道是多家陶瓷店进驻, 能让人感受到这浓浓陶制品艺文气息及悠闲的情调.
Yingge, a quick MRT ride out of Taipei, transports visitors to a world that does not seem, at first glance, to resemble Taiwan. Following the brown tourist signs to Old Street, sometimes called Pottery Street, visitors will find cobbled, palm tree lined streets encouraging afternoons filled with casual strolling. This could be any avenue in Europe, with notes of a street violinist drifting in the air and valuable, handcrafted pottery lining shop windows.
To get to Yingge from Taipei, you can get a TRA train from Taipei main station. It is a short trip, a little over half an hour, depending on the train that you take and ticket costs only NT$30.
Most attractions are located within a 10-minute walk of Yingge’s train station on Wenhua Road 文化路, including Yingge Old Street, the heart of the town’s tourist district. As you walk westwards down Wunhua Road (sidewalks are in distressingly short supply, even among the busiest of Yingge’s streets, so stay alert, especially at corners), look around for the elaborate facades of several brick buildings constructed during Japanese colonial rule.
莺歌老街是莺歌陶瓷的发源地, 规划成行人徒步区的陶瓷老街, 平日的中午到下午六点以及周末, 假日, 均禁止车辆进入.
结合造景和购物的老街, 陶瓷的意象无所不在, 仿烟囱造型的铁塑艺术品, 马赛克壁画, 还有精巧的陶板招牌, 而路两旁密集的陶瓷商家则是挖宝的好所在. 要去陶瓷老街莺歌火车站前有详细的观光导览图, 大部分的人也都会按图索骥的步行前往, 因为路程不远, 又可沿途走街串巷, 探访这难得的古镇风光.
莺歌陶瓷老街入口, 有一座仿文化路百年古厝成发居的闽南式红砖建筑, 其与铁制莺歌鸟装置艺术所营造的入口意象.
老街有两条, 呈英文字母的 Y 字型, 总长有一千多公尺, 商家陈列的商品虽都是青一色的陶瓷用品, 但是细逛之後发觉还是有区隔的.
映入眼簾的感觉, 就好像来到很有欧洲小镇呢, 规划整齐的步道, 没有杂乱的摊贩摆设, 来这随意走看逛街, 满悠哉的.
Yingge's Old Street is different from the ones you'll find at some other places in many ways. For one, the streets are wide and spacious, so you are not crammed against a thousand other people, all trying to squeeze their way through stifling alleys.
这是老街新间建的商店示馆, 里头各式陶瓷, 雕塑等商品.
这座四方烟囱现已功成身退, 成了报时钟, 每整点会喷烟报时并开始鸣笛.
莺歌陶瓷最早发迹之地就是尖山埔老街, 这条老街一直是莺歌陶瓷业的发展中心, 深具历史价值. 近百家美丽精致的陶瓷艺品店, 整齐的排列於两侧, 别有创意地表现出各自的独特之处: 仿古陶瓷, 生活陶瓷, 创意茶具, 陶瓷雕塑, 现代陶艺, 日常用瓷等各类型的陶艺作品, 极为赏心悦目, 而且洋溢着另一番远离世俗尘嚣的气氛, 值得您驻足品赏. 除了美丽的陶瓷邂逅之外, 您也可以在有些陶艺店所附设的陶艺教室中, 真正体验一下手拉坯的乐趣.
The shops along Ceramics Old Street sell almost everything made of fired clay, from simple earthen flutes for the kids (about NT$50) to 7-foot vases for your living room (if you live in a palace, that is) that can cost millions of NT dollars. This is a great place to browse and admire pottery objects (many pieces of which are worthy of being exhibited in museums) and to shop for one-of-a-kind souvenirs.
The amazing range of styles, shapes, colors, and purposes of usage ensures that every shopper finds a treasure to his liking. Among the most popular items are rice bowls, mugs, vases, flowerpots, decorative items, and tea utensils. If you can't find anything that tickles your fancy here, try one of the many other pottery outlets scattered about Yingge - after all, there are nearly 800 ceramics makers and shops in town. Many of these establishments also offer tours of their workshops, allowing you to get an idea of the production process. If you want to try making pottery yourself, many also offer DIY experience classes where you can mold clay and paint your creations.
莺歌陶瓷老街原本道路两旁的老旧陶瓷厂房均改建成营业商店, 行经老街, 可发现陶瓷餐具专卖店, 陶艺家工作室, 莺歌陶瓷老店, 陶艺家展售中心, 陶艺DIY教室及工厂直营商店等各具特色的 '陶' 主题店家, 店内所陈列商品包括仿古瓷, 结晶釉, 文趾陶, 陶瓷茶具, 陶瓷餐具, 陶笛等兼具实用与艺术价值的陶瓷产品. 这些陶瓷产品也为莺歌陶瓷老街注入些许异国情调, 让莺歌不再只是 "台湾景德镇", 而是融会古今中外陶瓷艺术的台湾陶艺之都.
杨柳垂吊, 这幅老街景象, 文明中带着古意.
It’s no surprise that the pottery industry has flourished here. The town’s strategic position to a plentiful supply of quality clay has ensured an ongoing production of fine-quality ceramics. Today, visitors from home and abroad come here to browse through the dusty shelves and numerous pottery shops for exquisite objects by the town’s artisans.
Yingge Old Street has been re-built with modern look. The street is full with pottery shops. This is the place to find the best quality “Made in Taiwan” potteries, ceramics art, and porcelains.
一间堆着浅橘色花器的店, 整家店满满的陶瓷花器, 还需要放在路旁风吹雨打, 却让人感觉很 '勇健' 的盆栽.
老街附近的 '汪洋居' 是市定的古迹, 看骑楼的红砖拱门及楼面丛生的杂草, 当不难想见它是历经多少风霜的古厝了. 老街的建筑都尽量符合古老特色.
Yingge 鶯歌 is really a charming, small town style, an artistic town in Taiwan belongs to the which is Taiwan’s ceramic landmark and the ceramic lovers’ paradise. Going through history, Yingge’s flame from its ceramic kilns has been burning for over 200 years. From one generation to the next, Yingge’s ceramic continues to shine as the stars!
Well, if you want an experience a little different than your typical Old Street 老街 experience, look no further than Yingge 鶯歌. And while yes, Yingge is a small, mountainous village boasting its very own Old Street, there's a little bit more than meets the eye here.
来到莺歌陶业最早聚集地, 原本幻想着是窑厂林立, 街道旁堆满着各式陶瓷器品, 时空交错间, 让人在老旧的店家中带着寻宝的滋味. 莺歌老街的家家户户都会做陶, 至今仍保存上百家陶瓷商店, 走入老街, 即可感受传统及现代建物的相互交错的魅力, 沉浸陶艺薰陶之乐.
Part 4 - A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - To be continued....
A freelance Singapore-based travel photographer / photojournalist. I seek the extraordinary, but finds beauty in the everyday. Life is interesting, capture it.
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