Part 4: A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan - Sanxia Old Street (a.k.a Three Gorges Street) 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - 三峽老街
Here goes the Part 4 of my recent trip to Taiwan: A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan - Sanxia Old Street (also known as Three Gorges Street) 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - 三峽老街.
There are just too many old streets in various counties and towns in Taiwan. They were the centre of trade in Dutch or Spain colonial period, Chinese communist period, Japanese occupation period etc. What is so characteristic of these historic places is the the architecture itself. Apart from the Baroque stone cravings, you will also find the old name of the stores that once stood here carved on to the building itself. Walking along Sanxia Old Street brings you a feeling of reminiscence for the good old days. If you like a deep cultural experience in Taiwan, welcome to visit Sanxia Old Street 三峽老街.
三峡老街是指民权街, 和平街, 仁爱街和中山路, 保存最久且最完善. 民权街(原名三角涌街), 长约二百公尺, 融合不同年代的建筑风格, 如巴洛克, 希腊式, 日式家纹等, 曾是台湾现存最完整的老街道. 老街的红砖拱廊梁, 柱, 匾额, 女儿墙, 牌楼上的收头图像都颇具特色. 在这可看见往日风情的商店街林立, 有染坊, 制材所, 茶行及着的三角涌米粉店, 伫足其间, 不禁令人怀念起往日时光.
Sanxia's old name was 三角涌 Sanjiaoyong which means a point where three rivers converge. The name was changed to 三峡 Sanxia during the Japanese occupation period.
三峡在早期有 "三角涌" 的旧名, 因位处三峡, 横溪及大汉溪, 三溪的交流汇集之处, 故得此名.
在早年, 三峡制茶, 樟脑, 木材及矿业相当兴盛, 所以也是当地热闹的集散地, 造就了三峡老街当年兴盛的风貌, 至今仍保留当年繁荣商街的建筑样貌. 只是历经时代变迁, 三峡老街 (又称三角涌老街) 已不复见当时商人往来频繁的状况, 现已转任观光重责, 把老三峡的艺术人文传承下去. 跟我一起走入有如时光停滞的三峡老街, 一探其迷人风采吧!
The street, while short (it’s only about 200 meters long), is lined with stores selling everything from handmade soap and jade jewelry to Chinese calligraphy brushes and lacquered wooden boxes.
一走入三峡老街, 真的好像进入时光隧道, 这里的年份, 像停在五十前年的台湾, 那么的复古.
走在三峡老街, 就好像进入时光隧道, 相连不断的拱廊, 古色古香的建筑, 虽然老街历经岁月沧桑, 已经显得有些破落, 但是这样的气氛, 最适合具有怀旧风味的商店到这儿进驻, 如果你是稍为有点年纪的朋友, 就很有可能在老街里找到年少时的回忆, 去逛逛三峡老街抒发思古幽情, 一整天下来, 真是一趟极有意义的知性之旅.
Cool retro architecture along Sanxia Old Street / Three Gorges Street.
Each store has its little sign that tells people what they sell in their stores.
These structures, with their brick archways, baroque accents, ancient wood beams and ornate carvings (characters carved on the buildings show the names of the occupants who once lived or worked in them) exude a tangible nostalgia for the past.
现以的三峡老街, 至今仍保留许多日据时代以来的商业街屋建筑, 老街上的房子刻字代表着姓氏, 行业或堂号, 是当时商家做生意时普遍的宣传手法, 牌楼上的图示也十分具有意涵, 例如代表避邪的八卦, 平平安安的花瓶图样等, 而街屋则多以红砖及土角堆砌而成, 由於当时三峡老街上的商家, 大多都是富有且有头有脸的人家, 建造房舍时的建材与形式理所当然也是一时之选, 从外地进口建材及设计的例子不胜枚举, 加上近日多方极力保存, 造就了今日三峡老街风情依旧的模样.
除了一些新潮的店面进驻, 让人还感觉生活在现代科技化中, 其它的传统式商业街屋建筑, 真的很有早年台湾的风味! 三峡老街真的保留了蛮完整的街屋风貌.
每栋房舍, 上方是浓浓的巴洛克式建筑外墙, 下方, 就是由传统红砖砌叠而成的墙柱, 有着浓浓的古味.
漫步在老街里, 我突然庆幸我是在非假日造访, 人潮寥寥可数, 整个三峡老街, 就像被包场一样, 只有少数的游客穿梭其中, 让我享用一整个老街的恬静.
Blocks of handmade soap for sale. According to the shop owner, this is one of the oldest shops located along Sanxia Old Street (Three Gorges Street) that sells traditional handmade soap. It's a family-owned business which went out of business when shower gels and other kinds of bath gels became popular in the market. But with the resurgence of handmade soap and the nostalgia of traditional items from the old days 古早味, the family decided to make a comeback on their business.
What this shop is selling is pretty obvious. It's not a broom. It's a mega size calligraphy brush.
The buildings have been remodeled but they retained the original address plates and the wooden letterboxes.
Old style shop signage.
Sanxia Old Street is a very fascinating small town, definitely worth a visit. Walking along Sanxia Old Street is like walking into a time tunnel - the arched red brick hallways, the traditional architecture, the beams, columns, ancient wooden plaques, the squat maidens walls and the figure carvings upon the buildings are all very unique. Walking along this ancient street brings a feeling of nostalgia for the good old days and makes visitors want to linger.
新北市三峡老街充满古意的建筑, 总是令人油然升起一股念旧情怀. 虽然现今三峡老街摆脱了往日的喧嚣, 独留一幢幢的红砖拱廊和巴洛克式立面牌楼建筑, 却仍是吸引许多游客到此驻足, 依山傍水的三峡老街, 更是台湾北部最常的老街之一, 百馀座不同风格的街屋塑造了三峡老街独有的特色. 近年来, 透过地方人士的号召及奔走, 三街重新聚集了许多传统手工创意产业, 为老建筑, 旧街道带来了新的气象.
在大台北地区的老街有他们都是在日据时代, 引进的巴洛克建筑风格加上本土闽南的拱门红砖建筑两者的特色互相融和, 而老街在当时是在当地最繁荣的街道, 虽然说世代交替, 地区的繁荣兴衰改变, 老街的繁荣不再, 但留存下来的追忆是很令人回味的!
保存以往的面貌, 让人回味老三峡曾有的精彩风情, 走一趟三峡老街, 很开心, 有一个这么愉快的下午, 能亲自见识到, 三峡老街的魅力.
Part 5: A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan - 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - To be continued....
A freelance Singapore-based travel photographer / photojournalist. I seek the extraordinary, but finds beauty in the everyday. Life is interesting, capture it.
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