其实很多人不知道,在繁忙的台北市中心,还有条植满老树及日式古宅的幽静巷弄,青田街。巷弄两旁老树成荫,遮住头上的阳光,也隔绝了外面的人车声,静的连踩到树叶的声音都很清楚,和外头喧嚣的和平东路仿如两个世界,走在里面,不知不觉就放慢了脚步。一栋栋日式老屋,静谧地坐落在巷弄绿荫之中,在茂密的雀榕、软枝黄蝉之间,个性店铺群聚,这是青田街,台北最富人文诗意的街道之一。经过数十年无心插柳,虽然不少日式建筑已被改成4、5层楼的公寓,但青田街依旧保留超过30栋日式老屋以及为数众多的老树,堪称水泥丛林中的绿廊,也自然散发多元的生活美学。 青田街一栋栋老屋如同时空胶囊般,保留住许许多多文人雅士的生命轨迹。 Taiwanese people are entirely accustomed to having residential and commercial spaces mixed together, as is evident in the presence of convenience stores at every street corner. Some streets in Taipei bear such historical vestiges that one forgets time. The verdantly shaded Qingtian Street for example, is still flanked by wooded dormitories built during the Japanese Ruling Era. Qingtian Street is where noise fades into tranquility, and leafy giants stand quietly before rustic wooden houses of the Japanese style. While time passes by, Qingtian Street still retains its elegant look in a gentle attitude. Not only you can feel the historical inheritance, but also feel its vitality. Located in the busy city center, Qingtian Street is tranquil. These Japanese style houses built along are used to be the faculty's dormitory of National Taiwan University, which back in the day was the "Taipei Imperial College". It was a school set up by the Japanese, and still is one of the best university in Taiwan. The old wooden houses on QingTian Street are no longer dormitory. Instead, they have been renovated into bookstores, antique shops and tea houses, imitating the refined and slow-paced Japanese lifestyle. It is almost like a college town inside the city. So just take your time, walk slowly and enjoy the atmosphere. 位于青田街、和平东路口附近的青田十六,也是以青田街16号的地址而得名,这间小小木屋看似不起眼,邻街的座落也没有满是绿意的庭园,但这却是属于师大设计系专属的人文艺术创意实验空间,同样也是小型艺术沙龙与艺文陈展空间,在日式木屋的环境中,已陆续举办过数档相当有份量的前卫设计展。 我想让你知道的是青田街区的老树群的名号不迳而走,房屋、人、老树的和谐共存是都市中难得一见的清幽。 青田街也有不少充满书香与怀旧风的私密据点。例如沿双数弄往路底走,在一整排西式餐厅、咖啡屋对面,紧贴著青田街区,蠹行古书店的一间据点就在此处,这间专营古书与骨董网拍的商店,已在业界别具盛名,但此处却是难得能亲身接触、目睹拍品的展店,如此古色古香地矗立在街头。 蠹行还在店门挂起店招,上书殷海光名言:"像我这样的人,在这样的时代与环境,没有饿死已算万幸",更为青田街增添浓厚的书卷气。 走进青田街,这才我发现台北市中心除了高楼大厦、繁华的街景,还存在着一间间诉说著历史的老房子。
这便是青田街,一间间老屋撑起了巷弄的深度与结构,妥善守望着这都市的生命与记忆,清静、悠闲,仿佛时间随之静止,却也让人为之惊艳;更是个值得细步漫行,在绿荫缝隙的阳光下体验生活、消磨时光的宜居所在。街头巷尾弥漫的沉静之美,置身其中,总忍不住驻足良久,我想把这股属于岁月风华的美丽味道,深深记忆在心头深处。 青田一遇,美不胜收,胜便胜在这儿有着说不完的故事,一间间茶馆、艺廊、古玩店、画廊、咖啡馆串起的慢活滋味,唯有亲身体验,方能体会其中风情。 Qingtian Street is one of the street blocks that you should not miss in Taipei city. Walk along the alley and into one after another redesigned old houses ― restaurants, galleries, tea houses, book shops. Enjoy a rare and tranquil moment in the city. Countless untold stories are waiting for you to hear, and the memories and life of old buildings would continue to go one, now and forever.
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