Macau has a long history. Rua da Felicidade is one of them. It is Macau’s former red light district and also how the Portuguese street got its name “Street of Happiness” from its former seedy, heady colonial past. Walking here in the morning is such a joyful relaxation; people can feel the strong atmosphere of history from the green doors. Rua da Felicidade was built in the middle age of the Qing dynasty by the Macao governor-general. Two rich merchants and developed it into an entertainment street. Rua da Felicidade was divided into two parts. One is a cluster of brothels and teahouses while another part is a perfect place for taking drugs and drinking. So it was also called “the Paradise for men”. Once you come here, you’ll find that the street is preserved so well by the government that as if you have come back to the period hundreds of years ago. Any visitor can feel as if time has stood still and be able to imagine, far away from the modern casinos and shopping malls, how life might have looked like for ordinary people in old Macau. 熟悉澳门昔日情况的人,听到这条“福隆新街”,立即就想到是澳门著名的红灯区,是在清同治年间由福建商人开发而形成的热闹地段,有商铺、酒家、戏院,还有妓馆、烟馆进驻,是特定族群的花花世界。当时有不少的巨贾富商、世家子弟前往寻欢作乐,福隆新街葡文“Rua da Felicidade”亦有欢乐街之意。当时整条福隆新街,可分为上、下两段,上半段是妓院,下半段是烟室、赌馆及酒家。 街道两旁的白墙红窗门建筑是拍照打卡的好景致,不过掺杂几户米黄墙面绿窗门的建筑,有的装设欧陆风的花纹栏杆,虽然同样走复古风不至于突兀,但据说青砖绿门窗才是最初的建筑样貌。如今福隆新街在澳门政府几年前推行的改善市容计划,窗板和门口(包括金属门板)全刷成鲜明的绿色,今人赏心悦目。街上开设了大大小小的餐馆、酒楼、野味店、小食店、旅店等,是本澳食店较集中的一条街,可誉为“食街”。每天都会有游客到这条街游览,感受在以前当时的环境,有些游客更会到街上的旅店度宿一宵,而有些旅店的环境,是模仿五六十年前的旧式旅店的住宿环境,令住的人回到过去。 At the end of the Rua da Felicidade is Fat Siu Lau, one of Macau’s oldest and most popular restaurants which was opened in 1903. As a former Portuguese colony, the Portuguese cuisine was to serve government officials and business tycoons, especially for the Portuguese. Fat Siu Lau was one of the famous spots for these high-end customers to meet in the past. 佛笑楼是澳门一家极富葡国特色的地道澳门菜色远近驰名,至今已有百年历史,1903年开业,多款特色菜为食客津津乐道。此店白墙黑门、貌不惊人,轻轻推开黑漆木门,葡式菜那充满异域情调的芬芳便扑鼻沁肺,伴随这芬芳的是一个延续了上百年的传奇故事。据悉,创办人认为佛经常常展露笑容,希望客人品尝完美食后,也笑得像佛般开怀,因此将店铺命名为“佛笑楼“。 In the past at daytime, the Rua da Felicidade was like any other street in the "Bazar" area of Macau. In the early hours, the windows of the houses remained shut as their dwellers rested from the night’s travails. In the afternoon one began to hear the sound of people playing mah-jong, while music echoed from the "flower houses" – the sound of sing-song girls practicing their fine arts of entertainment. The district awoke to life and prepared for the nightly business. 街上鲜红簷蓬、通花窗门、木质的门板门栓都极富年代感,吸引许多影视剧来这里取景。 There are many cheap hotels, of which the most famous one is the Sanva Hotel built in 1873. Being one of the most beautiful hotels in Macau, it is a well-known film location. In 2006, 18-year-old Hong Kong actress Isabella Leong won the best actress in the 27th Portugal International Film Festival with the film Isabella, and Isabella mainly found the view in the Sanva Hotel. In addition, the film "Butterfly" starring Josie, daughter of the Macau casino tycoon Stanley Ho, and the film "2046" directed by Karwai Wong were all filmed at this hotel. The actor and actress, Tony Leung and Zhang Ziyi stayed in Room 2047 and 2046. Other famous celebrities Faye Wong, Gong Li, Carina Lau, Takuya Kimura, and Zhang Manyu had once lingered there many times too. 福隆新街还是廉价旅馆的集中地。当中名头最大的要数新华大旅店,始于1873年,曾是澳门最风光的大旅店之一。2006年,年仅18岁的香港影星梁洛施凭借《伊莎贝拉》荣获第27届葡萄牙国际电影节最佳女主角,而《伊莎贝拉》的主要取景地就是新华大旅店。 此外,澳门赌王何鸿燊之女何超仪主演的电影《蝴蝶》,王家卫执导的《2046》等也是在这里拍的,《2046》男女主角梁朝伟和章子怡就分别住在2047和2046房,王菲、巩俐、刘嘉玲、木村拓哉、张曼玉等一众明星也都在这家旅店里流连。 Today, the decadent world of vice and pleasure of Rua da Felicidade has vanished forever. The former brothels have been renovated and turned into restaurants, shops, guesthouses and café’s. The "Street of Happiness" has become an invaluable historic site, the only intact brothel district in China, with a unique architecture and atmosphere. It is still called the Street of Happiness, but a different and more chaste kind of happiness now.
时代巨轮转动,旖旎风光不再。今天的福隆新街已经再没有昔日的那种光辉了。不同于大量招牌悬在半空中的路氹官也街,福隆新街的商家营运低调许多,不过部份店铺似乎没营业或呈空屋状态,使这条街看来没那么商业化,也没有摩肩擦踵的人潮。历尽沧桑的福隆新街会否再现旧日繁盛?相信只有时间才会知道,但我相信如果第二次再来,我仍然还会喜欢这条老街所散发的怀旧感。
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Author
|