A visit to an old school dim sum place in Hong Kong is quite an unusual experience for the uninitiated. And with a touch of tension all built in, in this case, the Lin Heung Tea House in Central Hong Kong. If you are searching for that greasy hole in the wall serving up dim sum food, look no further. Lin Heung Tea House is one of the oldest tea-houses in Hong Kong and they are still serving dim sum and traditional recipes with no signs of slowing down. Lin Heung Tea House has remained authentic in terms of both décor and recipes since opening in 1920. As the name “dim sum” implies, a table full of food shared in good company will “touch the heart.” Be prepared to shout over the table as this place does not shy away from noise. Step back into the 1930s with the old paintings, authentic hot water kettle and the ceiling fans. 来到香港,怎能不去饮茶吃点心?来到香港旅游,当然要品尝最经典的饮茶文化。虽然港式的一盅两件,推点心车的传统茶楼已经少见。 香港人饮茶,不单只是为了点心的美味,而已经是一种生活文化。周日的家庭活动、朋友叙旧,长辈们的闲聊场所,都是茶楼的功能。莲香楼是香港目前还保留了推车饮茶桌边服务的老式茶楼。到香港历史悠久的茶楼,莲香楼绝对占有一定的地位。除了拥有百年历史以外,其中还保留了传统的点心车,大姐们推著放满点心的车子,在茶楼里面叫卖,非常热闹。以前的港片里,出现的茶楼就是这种风格,这种老香港的风情,还是很吸引人的。 莲香楼位于中环的威灵顿街,它在上环还有一家分店 – 莲香居。两间茶楼的门口都挂上两个红红的大灯笼,非常古色古香。 一桌桌的圆桌并列著,不管几点来好像永远都坐满了人。虽然当时置身在那里觉得一片闹哄哄,但又能感受到老香港人自在生活的态度,不管喜不喜欢,就觉得颇特别。 Lin Heung is chaotic, a noisy sea of tables, teapots and trolleys that’s lit with harsh fluorescent bulbs. Ceiling fans push around the conditioned air and steam, and the staff members (who are generally indifferent to the establishment’s place in the tourist pantheon) send around carts loaded with char siu bao (barbecue pork buns), siu mai (pork dumplings). But to get the best items, you’ll need to catch them as they come out of the kitchen. It’s all part of the experience. 因为这里不仅牌子老、口味老,连倒茶推烧卖的服务生都是六十多岁老伯跟老阿姨。 每当点心车出动的时候,总会被人团团包围。大家都希望拿到自己想吃的点心,可千万不用自己动手,不受秩序的话,点心大姐可是会骂人喔。每台车放的点心都不一样,这台没有,就去另一台找,跟寻宝一样。 A waiter will hand over two cups (if one is alone) or the one cup one per pax, a basin for rinsing cutlery and a tally card. If one is solo, the larger of the two cups is used for tea making, and the smaller one for drinking. One steeps tea in the larger cup and pour it into to the smaller one to drink. If one's party is more than self, then a pot is served instead of the larger cup. The rinsing bowl is filled with hot water, and one is expected to rinse the cups, chopsticks and spoon in it to cleanse them. The speedy patron turnover here means you’ll need to action fast to rinse your own utensils but that's just part of the whole memorable experience of dining at this Hong Kong institution. Every major city has landmark restaurants, time-honored addresses serving up plenty of nostalgia that are known as much for the setting as the cooking. In Hong Kong, such old school tea houses attract plenty of tourists as well as locals for good reason: They provide an inimitable sense of place, an increasingly rare commodity in city that changes as fast as Hong Kong. For me, I try to get a chance every visit to Hong Kong.
莲香楼虽然地板终年油腻、人多吵杂、伙计的态度又不是甚好,但是在闹烘烘的地方抢一笼港点,无疑也是体验香港的生活方式。来到香港,你想要知道广东人的饮食文化、想要知道老一辈人的生活、想知道一般平民的饮茶方式,那莲香楼绝对是最有味道的一处。
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