Rich History Behind Village-Like Settlements, Clan Jetties in GeorgeTown, Penang 两百年的槟城姓氏桥, 有着不一样的历史意义
Just when i thought i had explored every last corner of Georgetown and walked all of its historical streets, i was pleased to learn that there is, quite literally, a whole new side of town waiting to be discovered. Penang’s other-worldly clan jetties jut out over the tidal mud flats and seem to exist in a completely different time and dimension.
Most people would seek high ground when considering a suitable place to build their homes, but not the clans who have settled along Georgetown’s waterfront. Entire families moved out here and the various clans grouped together according to their province of origin, leading to the creation of several jetties along the water’s edge. The list of Can Jetties at Weld Quay: Chew Jetty, Lee Jetty, Lim Jetty, Tan Jetty, Yeoh Jetty, Chap Seo Keo (Mixed Clans Jetty), Peng Aun Jetty (already demolished) and Koay Jetty (already demolished). What surprised me most about my visit to the jetties was that life goes on very much the same way it would on dry land. People ride their bicycles and even motorbikes down the planks of wood which act as roads and sidewalks.
“姓氏桥” 位于槟城渡轮码头不远处, 住的都是水上人, 他们的屋子建于海上的木屋, 用木板桥作为连接的通道, 将房屋贯穿起来, 并与陆地衔接. 槟城姓氏桥在海上, 房屋都搭盖在海上, 底部用桩柱支撑, 并用木板铺设成桥樑作为村里的街道与陆地相连, 最长的木桥向海延伸约500米, 有些则较短, 左右建满了木屋. 由于是同姓者同住一桥, 就像中国同姓村的木桥版本, 同姓聚居. 这些桥民的祖籍大多数是福建同安县, 除了姓郭桥来自惠安县. 它是历史留下来的一种特殊的房屋形式, 很值得一看.
姓氏桥, 就是沿海而建的高脚木屋, 众多的姓氏桥中, 以 “姓周桥” 保存较为完好, 也最为有名. 而我就选择了游览周氏桥, 这里以华人居多, 大多部分木屋已经发展为小商铺, 当然也有部分仍有人居住, 甚至有旅舍. 这里虽说是槟城乔治镇有名的旅游景点, 但游客却不多, 偶尔传来午后窸窸窣窣的谈话声, 但更显得平静悠闲, 我慢慢地走着, 这里的每一块木板, 每一栋立桩, 每一条绳索, 都是历史见证, 窄窄的巷道中隐隐飘散的淡淡海腥味, 放佛还能看到这片水上人家昔日的生活, 漂泊与奋斗. 从木板的间隙中, 可以看到下面海水涛涛; 午后的阳光从头顶的屋檐中漏下映照在木板上, 仿佛拿上一本书坐在地上便可以打发一个下午, 一切都显得宁静悠闲. 这里并没有因为成为旅游景点而加设围栏, 保持一份原始的古朴味道.
槟城原本有 8 处海上人家, 分别为: 姓林, 姓周, 姓陈, 姓李, 姓杨, 杂姓, 姓郭及平安桥, 后两者抵抗不住发展洪流, 面临被拆的命运, 仅的 6 条桥变得特别珍贵, 因此都列入世界遗产范围内, 以更完善的制度好好保存下来. 村民的祖籍以福建同安县居多, 老一辈村民则一般以捕鱼为生. 虽说是早年的移民落脚站, 今日仍有许多人居住在那儿.
If you want to wander around a unique community and see how life goes on above the sea, then this is the perfect place to do so.
一走进姓氏桥真的就有古色古香的感觉. 虽然是在槟城市区附近, 可是这边就是有着那种悠闲甘榜的感觉. 很朴实, 很简单, 很有人情味的地方. 我觉得完全就是可以放松心灵, 慢慢游走在这里吹吹风, 拍拍照.
这里以华人居多, 大多部分木屋已经发展为小商铺, 当然也有部分仍有人居住, 甚至有旅舍. 这里虽说是槟城乔治镇有名的旅游景点, 但游客却不多, 偶尔传来午后窸窸窣窣的谈话声, 但更显得平静悠闲, 我慢慢地走着, 这里的每一块木板, 每一栋立桩, 每一条绳索, 都是历史见证, 窄窄的巷道中隐隐飘散的淡淡海腥味, 放佛还能看到这片水上人家昔日的生活, 漂泊与奋斗. 从木板的间隙中, 可以看到下面海水涛涛; 午后的阳光从头顶的屋檐中漏下映照在木板上, 仿佛拿上一本书坐在地上便可以打发一个下午, 一切都显得宁静悠闲. 这里并没有因为成为旅游景点而加设围栏, 保持一份原始的古朴味道.
Started merely as a wooden passageway and slowly created into a cluster of houses perch above the sea shores by stilts above the never ending shifting tides, this communal site is locked in a time zone by itself, disregarding the urban development that is taking place around it.
You will soon discover for yourself that each of the jetties has a different character and each boardwalk offers something new.
These aren’t just homes. This is a thriving community with temples, restaurants, and stores, offering everything you might need on a daily basis. Many of the homes have also upgraded their amenities over time, and you can even see satellite dishes mounted on top of the metal sheet roofs.
The small villages are characterized by old traditions and habits, from candles outside the door to complete prayer temples inside the house. In total there are six of these villages, in every village lives one clan, and every village has their own temple. The houses are built of a special kind of wood, which makes them resistant to the influences of the seawater.
灯饰最亮眼的姓周桥, 里面其实都是民居, 主要是感受一下当地人的生活, 像60, 70年代的广州香港. 桥上看起来似乎只有一个走道, 其实在走道旁还有一些分叉路, 走进去出现在你面前的又是另一道风景. 两百年的开发，让桥的结构变得极其复杂, 是表面看不到, 也想象不到的. 木板走道相当阔大, 左右建满了木屋, 每一间木屋的结构很紧凑, 堂屋, 灶房, 餐厅, 卧室, 亦有一些小商店, 如杂货店的, 方便居民日常生活所需.
Penang being a heritage town is rich with attractive historic sites and cultural events, but this inimitable settlement stands out as a truly unique living heritage. The Chew Jetty is actually a whole settlement of wooden houses built on silts and the name “Chew” is the surname (the first name) of the residences and that’s where the name was derived. Migrant’s families with this surname would live together in this area.
Having been a home on stilts on the shores for the Chew Clan community more than a century and is still now, the Chew Jetty has withstood the test of time and a strong testament of living heritage for Penang and the world to mesmerise.
姓氏桥的桥民依然保持着如昔日的生活作息, 海上人家的豪爽和热情依然可以从他们身上散发出来. 在乔治市荣升为世界遗迹后, 小部分桥民把房子发成民宿, 想一尝海上人家生活的朋友, 不妨一试, 那绝对是一种不一样的感受.
These clusters of wooden houses were built by the Chinese poor immigrants who work near the port during the nineteen century. These immigrants migrated from the south-eastern coast of China, known as the Fujian Province over here due to the hardship they face in their homeland during that era. Later they brought their families over and made this waterfront their home. The Chew Jetty is still home to hundreds of people living in this area today but many have changed their social and economic lifestyle.
The houses were built on an ad hoc basis and close to each other, with some separated by a small alley to allow sea breeze to pass through for the cooling effect. Some of the plank that runs between the narrow and twisted walkway used today are of the original ones. The jetty houses may look old and depleted but surprising very clean and tidy inside. You are able to find even a well stock grocery store, and most houses has modern amenities like air-conditions, television, fridges – a proof that modernization can juxtapose with traditional lifestyle.
The narrow wooden walkway is lined by houses on both sides, but occasionally opens up to reveal luxuriant potted gardens, or views between the houses to the mud flats and sea beyond. As you wind your way past dustbins, household shrines, ancient bikes and washing lines, you get a real sense of everyday life that is far removed from the shophouse-lined streets of the rest of Georgetown.
桥上的居民也确实仍保持着自己的生活方式, 门面稍大点的家门前都会有 “此为私人住宅不开放参观” 等标示, 估计他们的正常生活确实受到不少干扰, 不过他们的脸上没有流露出不满的表情, 依然故我地平淡生活着, 我也无意打扰他们, 所以没有拍照.
那么继续走下去吧, 因为就快到桥的尽头了, 可是还是被附近的风景给吸引住了, 原来靠近尽头的附近有间 Chew Jetty 名宿. 外地的朋友也许可以来过夜, 体验下传统简朴生活. 在这里慢慢感受和拍摄到最美好的日出和日落, 还可以租借小船出游吹海风或钓鱼.
Tourists who wish to experience the traditional lifestyle and a layback holiday could opt for a home stay in this settlement itself. The scheme was started by one of the residents thus enabling you to get a firsthand experience in this unique settlement. You could leisurely explore the surrounding which one would normally not be able to do so in a few hours of visit. The hospitality is unendingly friendly and one can experience a sense of the clan kinship within this community that has existed centuries ago.
沿着木板徒步到桥的尾端, 桥尾有一间褐色的方形小建筑, 槟城的海岸线映入眼帘, 桥下停泊了十多艘小渔船, 陆续还有一些从海中趁着夕照回来的. 这画面很有诗意. 桥头大榕树旁建了一间颇华丽的 “朝元宫”, 供奉保生大帝. 四条青龙盘踞柱上, 建筑以浅蓝、青色与枣红色为主调. 姓周桥社群的凝聚力很强, 尤其每年新春初九天公诞, 几乎所有桥民都会动员来大肆庆祝, 其共同拜祭的祭品长达数十张桌子, 长长的祭品旁还有舞狮、舞龙来助兴, 烟花炮竹更不能少, 它是槟城旅游重头庆典节目之一.
到槟城旅游, 当看到槟城的姓氏桥时, 不管怎样, 你也会想知道和了解一下, 究竟这是怎样的一个地方. “姓氏桥” 也曾多次面对被拆的危机, 最后在村民抗议声中被中止. 现在 “姓氏桥” 变得特别珍贵, 因此都列入世界遗产范围内, 以更完善的制度好好保存下来.
建造在水上的姓氏桥可说是麻雀虽小, 五脏俱全. 走着走着, 你会看到同样建在海上的, 除了住家还有杂货店, 庙宇, 理发店等等. 此外, 村内还有简单的民宿, 别具一番个性. 姓氏桥的桥民依然保持着如昔日的生活作息, 海上人家的豪爽和热情依然可以从他们身上散发出来. 在乔治市荣升为世界遗迹后, 小部分桥民把房子发成民宿, 想一尝海上人家生活的朋友, 不妨一试, 那绝对是一种不一样的感受.
夕照下走入姓周桥, 小村落宁静, 几位阿嬷赤足坐在自家门前乘凉, 等着归来的亲人. 啊, 好悠闲! 偶尔有电单车缓缓驶过, 不超速, 提醒我们应该把步伐给放慢. 这些画面拼凑出一个怡然自得的村落生活片段, 感染及感动了我这城市人. 对于水上人家的淳朴生活, 那是槟城原封不动的迷人风景线和城市生活造成一个很大的反差. 希望这样的的朴实会延续下去, 不会因为周遭的发展而变质.
Boat rides can be arranged around the ports and nearby islet and Penang Bridge, if the weather permits. The home is a stroll away to all the heritage sites of inner George Town and the main bus depot of Rapid Penang and the iconic Penang ferry terminal.
沿着木板徒步约100米是桥的尾端, 槟城的海岸线映入眼帘. 我想住惯钢骨水泥的城市人对海总有一份特殊的情怀, 在面向海洋的宽阔, 任凭海风把头发给吹散, 总会不由自主静下心深呼吸，这算是对海的敬礼吧.
For visitors to Penang, this site is a fascinating and must not be missed out in the itinerary. One step on to the wooden walkways you will be able to “feel” the ambience from the surrounding that exudes a sense of nostalgia in this unique waterborne community. You get a pip of the sea below you as you walk along the wooden platform through the gaps in the floorboard.
Walking further down towards the sea will lead you to a world that is half forgotten and serene. Just on your left you will see a contrasting sight, the modern hustling and bustling Penang harbour. At the end of the jetty you are able to capture a panoramic view of the port and the activities between the mainland and the island with also magnificent glimpses of the third longest bridge in the world as you gaze to the horizon of the Straits of Malacca.
这些共有一个姓氏的宗族乡亲, 沿着吞吐货物的栈桥搭建起自己的水上村舍, 栈桥于是又成了村中的主街. 最前卫的和最传统的零距离共处, 这就是华人先辈们参与全球化的个性化方式. “姓氏桥” 记载着南洋华人的祖先在19世纪远渡槟城, 重新扎根及生活的地方. 这里可以看到华人祖先当时努力奋斗、辛苦保留的建筑.
经过两百年开发的姓氏桥结构极其复杂, 每一间木屋的结构都很紧凑, 拿起相机, 这复杂的结构使完美的构图浑然天成.
Not only are these communities unique and the oldest surviving cluster settlement in Penang, the Clan Jetty is a priceless piece of Penang’s history and significantly contributing to the rich cultural heritage. A visit to the jetties is like walking down an avenue that leads to a world that is half forgotten and is lodged in a time zone that is quite separate from the present. The sea, the silent houses on wooden stilts and their dwindling number of occupants speak eloquently of its rich past and the hardy seamen who once lived there.
A freelance Singapore-based travel photographer / photojournalist. I seek the extraordinary, but finds beauty in the everyday. Life is interesting, capture it.
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