Rich History Behind Village-Like Settlements, Clan Jetties in GeorgeTown, Penang 两百年的槟城姓氏桥, 有着不一样的历史意义
Just when i thought i had explored every last corner of Georgetown and walked all of its historical streets, i was pleased to learn that there is, quite literally, a whole new side of town waiting to be discovered. Penang’s other-worldly clan jetties jut out over the tidal mud flats and seem to exist in a completely different time and dimension.
Most people would seek high ground when considering a suitable place to build their homes, but not the clans who have settled along Georgetown’s waterfront. Entire families moved out here and the various clans grouped together according to their province of origin, leading to the creation of several jetties along the water’s edge. The list of Can Jetties at Weld Quay: Chew Jetty, Lee Jetty, Lim Jetty, Tan Jetty, Yeoh Jetty, Chap Seo Keo (Mixed Clans Jetty), Peng Aun Jetty (already demolished) and Koay Jetty (already demolished). What surprised me most about my visit to the jetties was that life goes on very much the same way it would on dry land. People ride their bicycles and even motorbikes down the planks of wood which act as roads and sidewalks.
“姓氏桥” 位于槟城渡轮码头不远处, 住的都是水上人, 他们的屋子建于海上的木屋, 用木板桥作为连接的通道, 将房屋贯穿起来, 并与陆地衔接. 槟城姓氏桥在海上, 房屋都搭盖在海上, 底部用桩柱支撑, 并用木板铺设成桥樑作为村里的街道与陆地相连, 最长的木桥向海延伸约500米, 有些则较短, 左右建满了木屋. 由于是同姓者同住一桥, 就像中国同姓村的木桥版本, 同姓聚居. 这些桥民的祖籍大多数是福建同安县, 除了姓郭桥来自惠安县. 它是历史留下来的一种特殊的房屋形式, 很值得一看.
姓氏桥, 就是沿海而建的高脚木屋, 众多的姓氏桥中, 以 “姓周桥” 保存较为完好, 也最为有名. 而我就选择了游览周氏桥, 这里以华人居多, 大多部分木屋已经发展为小商铺, 当然也有部分仍有人居住, 甚至有旅舍. 这里虽说是槟城乔治镇有名的旅游景点, 但游客却不多, 偶尔传来午后窸窸窣窣的谈话声, 但更显得平静悠闲, 我慢慢地走着, 这里的每一块木板, 每一栋立桩, 每一条绳索, 都是历史见证, 窄窄的巷道中隐隐飘散的淡淡海腥味, 放佛还能看到这片水上人家昔日的生活, 漂泊与奋斗. 从木板的间隙中, 可以看到下面海水涛涛; 午后的阳光从头顶的屋檐中漏下映照在木板上, 仿佛拿上一本书坐在地上便可以打发一个下午, 一切都显得宁静悠闲. 这里并没有因为成为旅游景点而加设围栏, 保持一份原始的古朴味道.
Cafe Hopping In Georgetown, Penang (4): MoonTree 47 Homestay + Cafe + Art Gallery 槟城乔治市月树47咖啡屋复古的韵味
One of the reasons that Penang has been attracting tourists is due to its preserved heritage culture and since then, many cafes sprung out with their very own unique classic places that offer customers a heritage feel of it. You can find such ambiance at one of the famous street in Gerogetown, Penang - Muntri Street.
MoonTree 47 is located at No. 47 Muntri Street which is a vintage cum guesthouse, and i fell in love with its rustic furnishing the moment i stepped in. I love how different spaces were carved out for different groups of customers and of course, all the vintage decorations and paraphernalia. I spotted stuffs from my childhood that I can no longer find in modern Singapore, and for a moment, nostalgia washed over me. The food and coffee’s pretty good here – It’s a perfect place to rest your legs after hours of walking on the streets, or simply enjoy a quiet afternoon read. Hold your breath deeply and we shall escape from the hustle and bustle of the city now.
如果你曾经来槟城喬治市却没有到过这家咖啡馆, 那你算落伍了哦! 若你到过这里就一定会告诉你自己我下次一定会再来, 因为这里实在太舒服了. 细腻地呈现出槟城人的生活记忆空间的装潢, 展现自然绿意与乐活气氛的《MoonTree 47》. 每个人一踏入咖啡馆, 第一个湧上心头的问号, 就是咖啡馆的名字从何来? MoonTree 是 Muntri 路的谐音, 47 就是门牌号码.
一踏进 Moontree 47, 感觉仿佛回到了旧时代. 店里的墙上挂满了老照片, 琳琅满目的老茶具, 旧家私, 以及饼干铁桶制成的灯饰, 使空气中散发着浓浓的复古味.
Cafe Hopping In Georgetown, Penang (3): Bike-Themed Wheeler's Coffee Cafe 脚踏车主题 Wheeler's 咖啡馆
One of the newer cafes to hit downtown George Town in Penang, Wheeler's Coffee - this coffee spot has been specially set up for those with two-wheelers in mind. Its cheery-coloured walls are decked out with bicycle-related artwork, and provide a selection of high end bicycles for rent in case you feel like cruising down the streets of George Town in style. Venturing upstairs means finding a spot where you can kick back with a book over breakfast, lunch or dinner, with a nice culpa.
At bicycle cafes, travelers can stop for coffee, grab a bite to eat and get air in their tires or even a tune up, all at the same time. These cafes are proliferating in many countries, enhancing the “in the saddle” experience for everyone from urban riders and hard-core cyclists to weekend warriors and tourists.
槟城大街小巷近期崛起林林总总主题餐厅, 在乔治市爱情巷就出现了以铁马 “脚车” 为主题的餐厅. 在日愈繁忙的小城市里, 诞生了这具有风格及品味的餐厅, 这餐厅名为 Wheeler’s Coffee. 在槟城老街 Love Lane 里头有一间别出心裁的咖啡馆, 店内店外摆设了好多的脚踏车, 当然这里的脚踏车也出租给旅客, 让你轻轻松松地骑上脚踏车随意的乱窜槟城老街, 借脚车游玩古蹟区大街小巷, 发掘老街背后的老故事.
Wheeler's Coffee 的 Wheeler's, 可以指旋转者; 旋转物, 也可以是推车人, 也可以指任何有轮的东西, 包裹脚踏车. 所以, Wheeler's Coffee, 顾名思义, 就是以脚踏车为主题的咖啡馆. 我远远的, 就看到了餐厅高挂的招牌边上一台与招牌一块高挂的脚踏车, 好不吸金, 就连路过餐厅前的遊客, 都纷纷举起了相机拍照.
Cafe Hopping In Georgetown, Penang (2) - Cafe With A Touch of Nostalgia Behind 50 Cafe 浓浓怀旧气息的五十号咖啡馆
There are many new cafes with interesting ambience and unique features to explore in Penang, especially with the cafe culture gaining much popularity over the last few years. Most of these quaint cafes managed by both locals and expatriates are located in the heritage enclave of George Town and it is definitely worth exploring on foot.
In line with the latest hipster joints that have vigorously bloomed in places like the Klang Valley, Penang seems to be following suit, if Behind 50 can be taken as any indication. Behind 50 serves only dinner sets, as well as a few types of drinks; but the main attraction is undoubtedly its ambience nostalgic, rustic, and generally reminiscent of old-school Penang. Photographs of candid, humble Penang plague the recklessly scribbled walls, and the vintage gramophone sputters and crackles a vinyl record. And if you’re wondering, Behind 50 is named as such because it is located behind a building called ‘50’.
申遗成功后的乔治市与古迹相关的商业活动虽然不算快速发展, 但在乔治市范围内与古迹咖啡馆, 也是一家又一家地开. 这些咖啡馆除了古迹气氛与各有特色的餐单, 更令人留连的其实是咖啡馆里的人文氛围与人情味. 他们与乔治市及住在这座城市的人紧密相连.
Behind 50 是间在槟城爱情巷 (Love Lane) 的主题餐厅, 装潢复古, 有 70-80 年代的风格, 墙壁上的摆设有旧古董电视机, 老式收音机, 唱片, 旧打字机, 上空还有错综复杂的藤制天花板装饰. 我很爱这里的风格, 真是一见钟情的那种. 总爱真实朴素又有质感的空间, 气氛超棒. 取名为 Behind 50 是因为这家餐厅是在爱情巷门牌 50 号的店面的后面. Behind 50不只是咖啡馆名字，也是南华医院街上这间临街小店屋的门牌，相信这是乔治市最特别的门牌之一.
还未踏入这家放式的餐厅, 我就被这散发着浓浓怀旧气息的餐厅氛围所吸引, 是天衣无缝的营造了那许多人回忆里的年代.