今天我要介绍的这个上海老房子,非常有味道。 上海的诺曼底公寓(I.S.S. Normandie Apartments),现为武康大楼,造型仿照第一次世界大战时期的法国诺曼底号。圆弧长型造型特殊,彷若巨轮,路过即被其气势震撼住,是上海最早的外廊式公寓建筑。它是一座典型的法国文艺复兴风格的建筑,一个门廊、一个转角都洋溢着法兰西的风情。由于武康路和淮海路的夹角小,使得武康大楼有着一艘启航巨轮般的独特造型。在外人看来,它曾是老上海文化名流的聚集地,神秘而美丽。然而对于居住在大楼里的人来说,大楼是他们的精神寄托。 数十年来,这里曾是多位文化名人的居所,如著名电影表演艺术家秦怡、赵丹、吴茵、王人美、孙道临和王文娟夫妇等都曾在此居住,令大楼具有浓厚的历史价值和强烈的艺术气息。现在这座公寓里除了老住户,还有住上了一些年轻的白领,他们大多是些怀念《花样年华》时代的文艺青年,住在这里追求的就是《上海的风花雪月》中描绘的那种沧桑的风情。 Historical isn’t a word you’d usually associate with Shanghai’s architecture. It’s a thoroughly modern city on the surface – multi-storied apartment blocks, sky-high office towers, glass-fronted malls. But if you look a bit closer and you’ll find a whole host of interesting buildings. Shanghai’s colonial past has bequeathed the city with lots of architectural styles, from Neoclassical to Art Deco. Here’s a look at one of the most eye-catching buildings found during my Shanghai trip. The I.S.S. (International Savings Society Apartments) Normandie Apartments, is a triangular 8-storey landmarked building that sits on Middle Huaihai Road in Shanghai. It was built in 1924, and is now an excellent modern building in Shanghai (Historical Buildings under Municipal Protection). The Normandie Apartment was and still is a favorite with foreigners because of its rustic beauty and unique architecture. This mansion is a French Renaissance style apartment building. If you look at it from its west side, it just seems a ship, as described as “This oblique inserted long stripe just like a ship just anchored.” Such building appearance was built in memory of a famous French warship during World War I, “Normandie” – this was how this old house was named. 武康大楼坐落于淮海中路和武康路交叉口,形状扁扁的,像熨斗一样。楼高八层,外观为法国文艺复兴式风格。一二层墙面是水泥仿石墙,使之成为大楼基座的样式。三至七层,墙面是黄褐色砖块贴面。最顶楼的第八层继续使用水泥仿石质墙面,因此大楼呈现三个不同区段。 这座建筑外形独特,远远望去宛如一艘大轮船。 虽然墙面上已透出青苔,精美的砖石雕花已有凋落,整幢房屋显得有点苍老,但是,在它的墙上、窗间所散发出来的罗曼蒂克式的贵族气息,至今却仍独一无二。 Situated in a much sought-after area of town, the triangular plot of the Normandie is at the junction of five streets and provides a great open vantage point from the balconies - the sleek and "sharp" form of the building jutting out like a battleship into the grand vista created by the large road junction. 因为坐落在武康路上,诺曼底公寓在目前已经被改名为武康大楼,但人们始终还是更喜欢它原来的名字。 Observed from the street level, the walls of the first and second floor present the effect of mock sandstone with cement and sand pasted on. On the third floor, narrow balconies connecting to each other form the waistline of the building. The walls from the third to the seventh floors are covered with red bricks. Windows on the third floor are decorated with pediments. All rooms facing the street have a delicate iron-railed balcony, revealing Classic French-style. 后窗是武康大楼里颇有情调的民宿,简单的墙饰带来了生动和复古的氛围,昏黄古朴的色调增添宁静之感。 在武康大楼这附近的马路上,充满了法国文艺复兴式的风情,坐在路边咖啡店的露天餐桌上,喝杯咖啡、晒晒太阳,仿佛进入另一个时空。 武康大楼属于法国文艺复兴风格,没有处处缀饰,只在窗楣、阳台下等几处做符号性的点睛之笔,突显了原有的大气,又更具味道。 其实,我对内部也充满好奇,但因为该楼仍为私人住宅,除非有认识的人儿居住里面,方能参观,否则一般人也无法进入了解内部构造。但 关于这栋武康路淮海中路的大地标,也值得来此一睹真面目的。毕竟,经过风花雪月的岁月里,伫立在此见证近百年的历史。 武康大楼的每一个空间,似乎都在倾诉有意思的故事。这些故事正是一个城市文化生活的写照,因此,武康大楼不只是一个独立的整体,而是空间与生活、城市与文化的相互叠加与渗透。
武康路被誉为 “浓缩了上海近代百年历史”,是“中国历史文化名街”。一路上历史建筑的数量几乎是上海之冠,这一路走下来,让我身心舒畅,且看够上海老洋房。富有历史故事和文化底蕴的武康路,只要你懂点历史和人文,那就能感受到这里浓郁的色彩,还有一些文化名人生活过的痕迹。武康路沿线上的西班牙式、法国文艺复兴式等风格的建筑极富特色的老建筑,是上海中心城区最具欧陆风情街区之一。 Even with skyscrapers standing around it, the Normandie Apartments is still compelling. More than compelling, i must say that it is awesome as well. The feeling comes from its huge body, or you may well say it is from the years passing by it, or from its location at the intersection of five roads with Wukang Road to the left and Middle Huaihai Road to the right, which gives it a majestic look. It is rare to find five roads converging at one intersection in Shanghai. After visiting the Normandie Apartments, i suggest that you can also take a walk along the Wukang Road, which is part of one of the best-preserved and most European-styled blocks in Shanghai. Although it is not a long road, it provides a lot to see. Enjoying a history of about 100 years, Wukang Road is Shanghai’s first road which will never be broadened. Not only can the road not be broadened, but also the height of the buildings along the road cannot be altered. Everything will be preserved strictly as it is. There are a great variety of excellent modern buildings on both sides of the road – English country style, classical style, neo-classical style and Mediterranean Garden Villas, etc., all worthy of a closer appreciation.
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