在上海哪里可以逛逛文艺区呢?我想应该有不少人会推荐去田子坊走走吧。田子坊在上海有 “上海地区的创意产业聚集区” 的称号,听说有不少个人工作室和一些文创产业在这里。也因为这样,这次上海的行程里,早已敲定了它。 在上海有许多可以逛街的地方及大型商圈,但是都有一个共同的特色就是 "大",一个南京路步行街的宽度就相当于台北的忠孝东路,较少像是田子坊这样小街巷弄的老街,我很喜欢田子坊的氛围和文化。在这里找一间小咖啡屋点个餐,下午就很悠然地在咖啡屋想想事情,写写文案,或着和朋友聊聊往事,这样的氛围和心情不是花钱可以买的到的,在田子坊你可以让自己的心情放松一下,找到属于自己的小小空间。田子坊目前还有一般住家居住在这里,感觉比较亲切。 田子坊有三个特色: 1. 老房子:超过50年以上的建筑群,反映民国初年古朴特色。 2. 创意市集:各式各样的文创产品,从搏君一笑的武功秘笈,到零钱袋等等相当有创意,并有艺术家定期开设展览、老照片怀旧或艺术画作。 3. 咖啡屋美食:各国风情咖啡屋坐落于石库门建筑内,以及露天西洋料理,别具特色。在这里逛街就像走入时光隧道,到了老上海城镇穿梭小巷比起一般逛街市集人潮拥挤,感受好太多了。 Shanghai has been praised as of the Paris of the East, if you are in Shanghai and want to understand the true style of city, then you must visit Tian Zi Fang. Tianzifang is an art, craft and Shikumen (stone-door-frame houses) enclave developed from an old residential area of the former French concession, a shikumen residential built in 1930s in Shanghai. In 1980s artists, designers and vendors began to set up their studios, art galleries, craft stores, design house, cafes, bars, and restaurants a kind of creative industry precinct in an old residential area of Shanghai. With high speed of modernization, lanes which have great memories about old Shanghai are gradually replaced by skyscrapers. However, you still could find a place like Tianzifang keeping the precious scenes of old Shanghai. Like a roll of colorful film, Tianzifang records the real life of Shanghai citizens in old time which gives you different wonderful sight. Especially when you are close or touch the Shikumen and bricks, you might hear the historical voice telling you its experiences. 田子坊这里的建筑还蛮特别的,是上海特有的传统建筑 “石库门”。这种上海独特的建筑风格,是近代上海民房的主要建筑形式,是从传统的江南民房融合英国传统排屋演变出来,算是一种中西合璧的建筑风格,非常的有特色。 传统上海石库门巷弄的感觉是存在的,在这里可以看到非常有味道的巷弄感。穿梭在田子坊之中,那迂迴的巷弄就好像是在在迷宫之中,如果不是里面到处都有设置这样的地图。说真的,我还真不知道自己到底是在田子坊的哪里。因为每一条巷弄都十分的神似,而且都接过来接过去的。 Walking inside of Tianzifang, you will realize the real situation about dwelling narrowness when you face to small houses, windows and attics here. Themed as a paradise of artists, Tianzifang is a Creative Garden in Shanghai. Shops in unique styles and open bars are well-regulated. Decorations on the doors are worth paying attention to. Some are fashionable, some are simple and unsophisticated, some are returning to the ancients. Different time and space mixed together that even turns old things into grace. This design is a good way to satisfy people’s pursuits of fashion and reminiscence. 常常走着走着会有 “柳暗花明又一村” 的感觉,每一条小路都会带给我不一样的惊喜,因为逛着逛着常会不经意的看到一些特色的小店。 Missions to Tianzifang always will be seeing works of art, strolling around some special shops, really very small, maybe 2 square meters, or taking photos. But, believe me, no matter what kind of purpose brings you here, you will find peace in your heart and enjoy a good day here. 这里除了有创意店铺和画廊、摄影展,最多的就是各种各样的咖啡馆。在闲散的下午,就着弄堂里的习习凉风,明媚的阳光铺在地上,空中满是慵懒的咖啡香味,真个是大有 “偷得浮生半日闲” 的意境。 在这里其实有一些特色的店家是隐身在二楼,所以在逛时偶尔可以逛逛在二楼的店铺,说不定可以发现一些特别又让人惊喜的店,还有一些非常特别又迷人的小东西。说真的,在田子坊这里真的处处都充满了惊喜。而且这些惊喜常常就隐藏在小角落里面。 我在里面逛时有看到几家还蛮特别的小店,卖的是一些带有创意气息的产物,我觉得很不错。像是这一家里面卖的明明是笔记本和明信片,可是他就是用非常有特色的方式来设计,就连明信片都设计的很有味道。 门口的设计也是让人眼睛为之一亮,我很喜欢这样的设计风格,所以逛的非常的开心。其实这类型的文创小店在这里非常的多。喜欢这类风格的人,来这里真的可以花一天时间来逛。 When you are at Tianzifang, do keep in mind that there are actually three main lanes which you can take. The three lanes are interconnected, easy to get pleasantly lost wandering in and out of the passages though this area is interspersed with with location maps. So it is a bit hard to navigate and sometimes you have many turns and bends. You will meet a dead-end and then back-track and find a new passage. I can assure you that it would be fun exploring inside the neighborhood of labyrinthine alleys. 田子坊这地方说不大不大,可是说小也不小,认真的要逛起来,一天的时间其实根本不够,说不定来逛一个星期,也没办法把这里逛透,因为这里真的有太多小店可以挖宝了。难怪会有一堆外国人都喜欢来这里逛逛。其实到这里的小巷弄咖啡馆点一杯咖啡,欣赏窗外石库门风情,看着来来去去的观光客。或是带本书来这里体验一下放松优雅的伪文青气息,在这里消磨时间也是很不错的选择。
这次到上海的时间比较短,没有能花多一点时间在这里,其实我觉得有一点可惜,下次有机会我会多花一点时间在这里逛逛。 Tianzifang is a vanguard of creative expressions. I must say that every boutique shines with flashes of wit and creativity with one of a kind handmade novelty items. Tourists from overseas sit outside a café, while inhabitants hurry by. Most old walls are used as panels to exhibit latest elaborate doodles in bright colors. Tianzifang survives the surrounding city demolition by working in art. Its preservation is significant for the city’s cultural heritage. I will definitely re-visit Tianzifang again in my next Shanghai trip.
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