在上海,这样的好去处太多,但能令人眼前一亮的,却说不上几个。无意间,沿着熙熙攘攘的美食街吴江路,走到泰兴路口,只是一个转身,就有一处惊喜。 我没想到在静谧的泰兴路上还有这样一片最新园区,有着石库门质感更是在严谨中透露出随意,难得的是深处在繁华的都市中却保留了一份宁静。 你可以没有听说过 “张园”,但也无法改变这是个有历史,有故事的地方。张园虽然就位在上海最热闹的南京西路站旁,但却很少有人关注,相当可惜。这里浓缩了百余年的兴衰变迁。如今的张园,有 108 幢房屋,是上海种类最丰富、保存最完整的石库门建筑群。由于至今还有大量居民居住,充分的 “人气” 也让它的生命力至今流传。 一个春日暖阳的午后,我探访了已经逝去的 “张园”,想看看这座曾经名噪一时的海上旧园还会遗留下什么痕迹可供后人追寻。午后的阳光将张园里弄里的许多景致涂抹成一种斜线,将里弄里的横七竖八晾衣竹竿上的衣物,晒出了味道,似乎把旧上海最深最深的那种隐私也裸露出来。 Shikumen (which refers to an endangered form of architecture and city planning. Brick buildings within alley complexes fronted by a stone-framed kumen or gateway), is a style of housing unique to Shanghai, as it blends the Chinese and Western architectural styles. Shikumen, which are two or three-storey townhouses, have a front yard that is enclosed by a high brick wall. At one time, Shikumen-style neighborhoods accounted for more than 60 percent of the housing in the city. Since the 1990s, many shikumen-style neighborhoods have been demolished to build new residential or commercial buildings. It wasn't until many of the houses were replaced by skyscrapers that residents began to realize such monuments of Shanghai's past deserved to be preserved. If you want to see what a typical shikumen is like, you'd better hurry. Lets us now step inside a traditional shikumen-style house to discover the authentic Shanghainese way of life. I had the rare opportunity to actually walk through one of these Shikumen houses - Zhang Yuan (also known as Zhang's Garden), which was quite an interesting experience. This is an iconic place in Shanghai. Modernity seemingly stops at the entrance to Zhang Yuan. This rustic entrance lies a completely different world in a bustling Shanghai. 张园是上海滩向社会开放的最早最大的私家花园。张园位于今南京西路以南,石门一路以西的泰兴路南端,是1878年由英国商人格龙营造为园。1882年由原籍江苏无锡富商张叔和购得此园,取名“张氏味莼园”,简称张园。 我继续往里走,时光仿佛不曾打扰过这片闹市中的土地,弄堂的深处还是老上海的样貌,让人仿佛置身于90年代的上海滩。 光看建筑外观就觉得气势非凡,枯枝籐蔓爬满了外墙,多了几分百年寂寥感觉。这里在抗战时期曾经挤满了避难的房客。 The condominium towers that are replacing them, where next-door neighbours remain strangers, are breeding nothing but isolation. As I walked among these compact and often crowded homes, I saw distinct shikumen details, which include stone arches at entrance to lanes, carved wooden doors on some houses and the occasional art deco influence on various buildings. Equally as fascinating is simply being witness to daily street life in this private housing estate. 石库门是最具上海特色的居民住宅,在融汇了西方文化和汉族传统居民特点。这种建筑大量吸收了江南地区汉族居民的样式,以石门做门框,以乌漆实心厚木做门扇。 The homes are at least a century old, and that the living conditions are poor. 弄堂。 如果你对上海的老房子、石库门建筑有兴趣,也愿意细细的品味最原始的当地生活感受,目前的张园很值得来走一走,在这里拍照也非常棒,但是请不要打扰居民生活哦。
Half of Zhang's Garden is now under heritage protection, yet elsewhere the city's shikumen are fast being swallowed up by the relentless tide of redevelopment. There aren't many shikumen houses left in the city. Those that remain are the living fossil of life in Shanghai. I'm extremely grateful to had the chance to venture into this area to sample the undiluted atmosphere of an ancient Shanghai before it disappears forever.
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