云吞牛腩面, 水记老香港的好味道 (中环) Shui Kee, a Legendary Dai Pai Dong in Central, Hong Kong

.木板铁皮、简桌折椅、粉面小炒咖啡茶。。。谁都无法抗拒这香港独有的饮食风情：铁皮档。它们是上一代人的星巴克，朝行晚拆，能屈能伸，家家都有几十年的故事。自香港政府停发牌照后，仅存的铁皮档越来越少，若你在石屎森林中遇见了它，赶紧去坐坐吧，这种老香港特色美味，恐怕以后都再难尝到了。我认为这种地道文化应予以保留，希望香港政府能重新发牌。大牌档是香港历史一部份，应该保留下来令全世界都知道。

中环一向是老饕觅食之地，多间老字号屹立。沿着威灵顿街往上环方向走，水记就隐蔽在小巷吉士笠街上的70年铁皮大牌档，典型排档设计，几张木枱、几排木櫈、台台凳凳都放在斜坡上。档口历尽70年风雨，靠的是一直使用新鲜牛杂的坚持。大家都知道这里是吃牛腩和牛杂的好地方。牛杂是下栏，在水记就是上菜，因为这里用的是罕见的新鲜牛杂，和坊间大多使用的雪藏牛杂，吃起来真有云泥之别。

Dai pai dongs or street hawkers in Hong Kong are a dying breed, passed down through generations but now a rare sight in the city. The city struggles to maintain the few for the sake of collective memories and the tourists that visit. They only congregate mostly in the Central district and in the street markets of Sham Shui Po. Dai pai dong means a lot to me, it's about Hong Kong's food culture. I've gradually come to regard the street-side food stalls with a tinge of nostalgia as more of these traditional eateries are being forced into extinction by a government eager to clean up the streets.

Built from scrap-metal sheets, Sui Kee's 70-year old kitchen shack and six folding tables with stools sat on a sloping street off Gutzlaff Street in the city's Central District. The dai pai dong, its tables balanced precariously on the steep grade, was just a short walk from the gleaming heart of this global financial hub. Sui Kee specializes in cow offal served with noodles in broth. Deep-fried wontons are also popular options.

​在面档的蒸汽后面，看见一位阿伯默默地切牛煮面。丰盛的牛腩在卤水里慢慢翻滚，闻到香味，路人都忍不住转头驻足。

This elderly chef is one of the unsung heroes of the dai pai dong. They aren't in it to get rich or famous. It's a way of life, and a part of Hong Kong tradition that is slipping away.

中环的铁皮档，是一道风景线。斜路上放着台台凳凳，三两食客坐着叹茶闲聊，每一档都有自己的拿手好戏。若是收档，就用木板、铁皮捆起档口搁在路边。绿色的铜皮铁骨经历时代洗刷，依然深得民心，十几二十港币就能吃到的老香港特色美味，在中环打着灯笼都难找。

Affordability has always been the dai pai dong's appeal. The first stalls were commissioned by the British colonial government to provide cheap eateries to the poor after World War II, and many Hong Kongers like to see the eateries as part of the city's heritage.

Just as in the '50s, the attraction of dai pai dong is more than just cheap food. The fun of sitting on the street, watching the world go by, is a big part of it. If someone asks me what they should do to understand Hong Kong culture, I always say go to a dai pai dong. Nothing captures the spirit of Hong Kong like sitting at the table having a big meal surrounded by people. You're sitting outside, too, between all the buildings, so it's the real Hong Kong.

​老字号水记，则以牛腩和牛杂闻名中环，水记坚持用较贵的新鲜牛，是以水记的牛腩和牛杂，牛味特别浓郁，加上水记连牛脆骨、牛沙瓜等千奇百趣的部位都有得食。牛肚软腍、牛膀滑腻，搭上脂香浓郁的牛大肠，浇几勺热汤，撒一把葱花，一碗热腾腾的牛杂。

​温馨提示，来水记吃东西记得要趁早，因为水记的另一名物炸云吞和炸鱼皮每日都是限量发售，卖完即止，大家要食就要早点到了。

Wonton noodle soup with giant meaty chunks of beef brisket – it had an incredible pure taste of beef to it. Beef brisket is seriously yummy business in Hong Kong. Most noodle stores and restaurants will sell this dish and that’s one thing to be exceptionally thankful for.

一碗标准的云吞面应该是汤匙在碗底，四粒云吞在中间，上面放一层面，而面要浮在汤上。可不要认为制作云吞面很简单，一碗好的云吞面从汤、面、皮、馅的等每个环节都非常讲究。面食对于广东人来说不是主要的主食，但云吞面却是广东人的情结，许多离乡背井到外打拼的广东人，回到家乡都要尝一碗云吞面来满足身心对于熟悉味道的怀念。平日里，如果传说某个地方的云吞面滋味上佳，那么肯定有广东人趋之若鹜。

When it comes to signature local Hong Kong food, a bowl of warm 'wonton' noodles will certainly be on the list. For many people living in Hong Kong, a bowl of wonton noodles is the among the great comfort foods. The dish may look simple, but it takes a lot of attention because each of the three elements need to be right – rich broth, eggy, springy noodles, and goldfish-like wonton filled with shrimp and pork all combine to make the perfect bowl.

我觉得在水记不只是吃一碗面，而是感受老香港的美好。
老字号水记，用岁月来证明老板对每一碗面的心意。
趁有时间，大家不妨光顾水记，记住这份香港回忆。

The Dai Pai Dong is a huge part of Hong Kong’s culture that is unfortunately on the verge of extinction. There are currently only 28 licensed Dai Pai Dongs left in Hong Kong. With majority of them in Central and Tsim Sha Tsui, I strongly urge you get a taste of this cultural dinosaur before it leaves Hong Kong’s shores for good.