Many travellers think that all there is to see in Macau is nothing but flashy casinos and ancient colonial structures that reminisce the city’s Portuguese past. Surprisingly, this small territory has lovely sceneries and old villages where life goes on at a gentle pace, one of which is the Coloane Village. The moment I entered the village, time stood still with a rustic essence compared to the rest of Macau. It has the feel of a quaint old fishing port, with Portuguese-style buildings, pile dwellings, and corrugated steel houses all lined along narrow cobblestone-paved roads, just as they were more than a hundred years ago. 澳门路环是游客较少踏足的一块静地,但却是我这趟澳门旅行必去的地方。路环是个历史悠久的港口,踏足路环仿如时空交错,自然风光与横琴彼岸映入眼帘。走在街上可以看到澳门仅存的棚屋以木材及铁皮搭建而成的房子,充满了旧渔村的特色。当天早上来到这里时也没看到什么人潮,我喜欢这样的静谧,沉浸在古朴的渔村情怀。 Named in honour of Portuguese President Antonio Ramalho Eanes, the President’s Square is a good place to begin. The square is connected with quaint old alleys and roads that run through Coloane Village. A large statue of Cupid sits at the centre, and has also featured many times in television dramas which used the island as a backdrop. 恩尼斯总统前地是路环旧市区漫步的起点,也是搭乘公交车或出租车前来路环地区最主要的地点。广场的命名,是为了纪念首次到访澳门的葡萄牙总统恩尼斯。有趣的是,前地中央竖立了一尊爱神丘比特雕像,曾经吸引电视台到此为剧集取景,韩剧《宫・野蛮王妃》是这里取景地之一。广场内种植多种植物,绿树成荫,被当地居民称之为“花园仔”。 No matter which path you take in Coloane Village, you’ll no doubt end up in front of the Chapel of St Francis Xavier which is built in 1928. The pretty Baroque style, yellow and white chapel similar to other chapels in Macau, although much brighter in hue. The bright chapel is dedicated to St Francis Xavier, a missionary who devoted most of his life spreading Catholicism throughout Asia. 路环圣方济各圣堂是澳门路环市区的人气打卡好去处,圣堂建于1928年,属巴洛克式的葡式建筑风格,外墙以鹅黄色为主调再配上白色,给人温馨浪漫的感觉,连同圣堂前的小花园广场马忌士前地,整个景点仿如童话小镇一般梦幻,十分适合情侣到访打卡。 路环圣方济各圣堂曾是人气韩剧《宫‧野蛮王妃》和电影《游龙戏凤》的取景地,是粉丝踩点打卡的好去处。 There is a contagious urge to relax and feel the quiet in most libraries, and Coloane’s Library is no different. The old building has an atmosphere all its own and taking a moment to sit in its courtyard under the shade of the old trees is inspiring. The library is open from Monday to Saturday. 路环圣方济各圣堂附近的路环图书馆亦是人气打卡热点,楼高一层的图书馆与附近建筑物风格一致,鹅黄色主调的葡式建筑童话感满满,像童话小镇精致小巧的建筑。 走在街巷之间,可感受那股浓浓的乡村生活气息,让人放松心情。在路环的咖啡馆闲坐堤岸享受一个下午,实为赏心乐事。 Street art artists have breathed new life into the village. If you look closely while checking out the small pathways, you’ll see various styles of murals painted or etched across buildings and walls. 穿梭于路环的小巷,每个角落是一处美景,亦有不同艺术家在墙壁画上的画作,为路环注入不少文化色彩,使其跃身成为一处的打卡热点。 The Coloane Village centres on Eduardo Marques Square, which is a rectangle paved with cobblestones that are black, white and yellow, laid out in a wavy pattern reminiscent of the sea. The Square faces a seaside promenade that traces the channel dividing Macau from the hills of China proper. Strolling along the Avenida de Cinco de Outubro a.k.a. Avenue of 15th October (a historic street in the St. Antonio Parish named after the Portuguese Revolution of 5th of October 1910), there are also murals created by local artists based on the old fishing villages along the coast, depicting people in the fishing village huts under the sunset, and the hope for the safe return of family members who go fishing, in line with the nature of the sunset. 位于路环十月初五街尾是一个充满色彩的地方,由于十月一号是中国的国庆日,但是葡萄牙的国庆日却是十月五号,为了融入这里的文化,就把这条公路命名为十月初五马路。看看牌子上的葡文可以看到“十月”和“初五”的字眼,是不是很有意思呢? 走在十月初五马路这条街上,随处可见低层村屋,部分被涂画上不同颜色,五彩缤纷,如同一道道的美丽画卷。一整面墙的黄色或蓝色,搭配风格独特的门窗,于大树错落的剪影下,予人处于欧洲度假的感觉。这些鲜艳的色彩,简单地把生活气息融汇小巷之中。整段十月初五马路对出堤岸,空气清新,风景怡人,迎着海风,十分惬意,令人流连忘返。 很意外地发现来自台湾一直以来备受文青追捧的知名文化品牌《小日子》生活杂志进驻在远离尘嚣的路环村,为品牌注入更多澳门在地文化。游人可在店内感受两地文化的碰撞,选购心仪的文创好物。 A small Chinese temple is well worth the visit as it was built in honor of Kun Iam or the Chinese goddess of mercy. This intricate temple became so popular due to its beautifully designed moon gate which makes a nice photo opportunity. 这座历史悠久的观音古庙约建于1800年,二百多年来默默守护着路环市区,同时见证着社区内的发展与变迁。观音信仰在澳门十分普遍,相传观音大士拥有慈悲为怀的善心,庇佑渔民出海平安归来。 This temple is dedicated to Tam Kong which is believed to be the Taoist protector of fisherman and sailors. The temple contains beautiful pieces of art and an ancient model of a boat made from whalebone. 谭公庙已有百多年,是路环香火最鼎盛的寺庙,祭祀道教神仙谭峭,因多次显灵帮助渔家治病和预测天气,故被奉为渔家的保护神。庙内有一只由鲸骨雕制而成的龙舟,是一件已有百多年历史的文物,据说摸了会带来好运,因此许多善男信女进香后会顺便一摸。 与十月初五马路交口处,眼前已经是开阔的大海,谭公庙便位于海岸边,对岸则是中国大陆横琴岛,也是路环岛距离大陆最近的地方。 Built in 1677, the Tin Hau Temple is Coloane Island’s most ancient temple dedicated to Tin Hau, which is the mythological protector of seafarer. Tin Hau is also known as A-Ma, which is known to protect fishermen and sailors by turning bad instances into fortunate ones. Fishermen and sailors thus pay high regard to Tin Hau. 天后古庙是最古老、也是规模最大的庙宇。约建于1763年。庙内仍保存了一些文物值得一看,如一座历史悠久的古钟。天后信仰在澳门十分普遍,渔民深信天后能保佑出海作业的人。观音古庙与天后古庙、谭公庙及三圣宫合称四庙,小小的旧城区却有如此多寺庙,显示路环地区民间信仰之兴盛。 During the Portuguese era, Macau was an important trading harbour. There was regular ferry service, bringing passengers from Macau and Taipa to Coloane. With ferries running between the Pier and the Mainland as well, a customs checkpoint was set up for management purposes. As time went by, the key function of the Pier faded away. Today, salted fish on sale around the pier appears to be the only legacy of those glorious days, leaving the pier a sleepy, yet atmospheric place to grab some photographic snaps. 路环码头过去是澳门繁忙的码头,现今已没太多船来往,反而成了人气景点。路环码头建筑同样被刷上鹅黄色,温馨又可爱,吸引不少人打卡。站在路环码头,海产干货阵阵香气扑鼻,旅客可在此选购别具风味的本土渔产品。靠近路环码头有两家专售干货的海味店,其中的路环英利鱼栏属老字号,开业至今逾半个世纪,以专卖生晒咸鱼驰名。大半年来生意有起有落,但店主直言所以坚持下来,就为保住这门制作咸鱼的手艺,更为旧城区留住这道快将消失的城市风景。 Coloane Village is best known as the birthplace of the Portuguese Egg Tart – the culinary centrepiece of the Macanese food scene. A visit to Lord Stow’s Bakery (founded by Englishman Andrew Stow in 1989) in Coloane is a must because its egg tart is a pastel de nata-inspired version that is considered by many connoisseurs as the best of the best. Within the bakery, a pastry chef busily sets aside trays and trays of freshly baked egg tarts on a bench to cool. One bite and the topping, dotted with caramelised black spots, shatters and you are introduced to the rich custard within. And then there is the pastry — light, buttery and flakey — it is a joy to eat. Over the next few days in Macau, I found myself buying egg tarts from every vendor I came across, like an addict ‘chasing the dragon’. But nothing else compared to my first high at Lord Stow’s, and none have come close ever since. 著名澳门美食葡式蛋挞,发源地就在路环。在恩尼斯总统前地附近的安德鲁饼店本店,就是这个甜食的起源地。有趣的是,安德鲁饼店是英国人安德鲁・史斗所创,而真正起源于葡萄牙的葡式蛋挞,也是经由他的改良而成为现在我们熟悉的口味。刚出炉的蛋挞不但香喷喷地令人垂涎三尺,那松脆香滑的口感更是叫人难忘,难怪吸引了那么多专程到安德鲁饼店品尝葡挞的游客,包括我。到澳门路环扫街必食哦! Overall, the Coloane Village which was once a charming fishing village, has this laidback charm to it, that Macao has shed over the years. The overarching architectural theme is a quaint fusion of Portuguese and Chinese aesthetics. Coloane Village is highly recommended for those who love to see the quiet side of Macau and enjoy the laidback slow way of living with a vintage sight to see. I suggest the best way to experience the beauty and nostalgia of Coloane Village is to take your time to explore the narrow alleyways with unexpected twists and turns.
一直以为自己来过澳门,可以说是把该走的地方都走遍了,可现在才知道还有许多特别又值得一去的地方,包括路环渔村一日游,让我对澳门又多了一份新鲜感,中西合璧和古今交融的文化让这个城市充满了魅力,深深地吸引我。总得来说,在路环游玩,不需要着急打卡,慢慢走,点与点之间的趣味,有时更胜于某个具体景点。多留意周遭的民宅,感受宁静巷弄间的生活气息,左顾右盼的漫游才是在路环散步的乐趣。
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