Here goes the much-awaited Part 2 of my recent trip to the scenic and picturesque Hangzhou - Wu Zhen Village 游乌镇, 梦里水乡寻回久远的朴实宁静.
Wuzhen is a rich historic water town with about 1,300 years. This place is nicknamed the Venice of the Orient. Though time flies by, the name, address, river system, wooden structures, stone bridge and people’s way of living in this town remain the same. Talking about Hangzhou travel, people often know the West Lake. But I promise you that you will also lose yourself in Wuzhen.
In Wuzhen, everything keeps up an old customs. Walking on the slabstone-paved street, all housed in wooden structures of brown. Rivers and creeks spanned with stone bridges in various designs flow through the town. I feel it’s just like a dream when I first stepped into the place.
Wuzhen displays thousands of years of history in its ancient stone bridges floating on mild water, its stone pathways between the mottled walls and its delicate wood carvings. Also, setting it apart from other towns, it gives a unique experience through its profound cultural background.
在江南水乡, 有不少像乌镇这样的古镇, 美丽宁静得像一颗颗珍珠. 乌镇除了拥有大家都具备的小桥, 流水, 人家的水乡风情和精巧雅致的民居建筑之外, 更多地飘逸着一股浓郁的历史和文化气息. 这可能是它的历史最为悠久, 文化最为发达的的缘故. 从杭州出发走高速公路一个多小时的车程.
乌镇虽历经 1,000 多年沧桑, 仍完整地保存着原有的水乡古镇的风貌和格局, 梁, 柱, 门, 窗上的木雕和石雕工艺精湛. 当地的居民至今仍住在这些老房子里. 全镇以河成街, 桥街相连, 依河筑屋, 深宅大院, 重脊高檐, 河埠廊坊, 过街骑楼, 穿竹石栏, 临河水阁, 古色古香, 水镇一体, 呈现一派古朴, 明洁的幽静, 是江南典型的 "小桥, 流水, 人家" 石板小路, 古旧木屋, 还有清清湖水的气息, 仿佛都在提示着一种情致, 一种氛围.
除了修整了古街两旁的老房子之外, 还开发了很多的传统民俗. 进入景区的同时, 你就可以看见财神湾宽阔的水面, 财神湾很适合拍照, 如果当时游人不多, 那你肯定可以拍到很多漂亮的照片. 廊桥又叫逢源桥, 你去看了就知道他还是有一特点的, 桥下会有水栅, 苏杭有这样水栅的地方很多, 但是完整的就只有这里了. 这里有一个香山堂, 里面的东西都是陈旧的, 很有味道. 街上店面热闹非凡. 有编制竹品的, 有做黑陶的, 有裱画的, 有做糕点的, 有纺土布的. 在这些店面里, 你可以是一个顾客, 也可以是一个观演者, 因为这些店会有一些民俗的表演.
乌镇与众不同的是沿河的民居有一部分延伸至河面, 下面用木桩或石柱打在河床中, 上架横梁, 搁上木板, 人称 "水阁", 这是乌镇所特有的风貌. 水阁是真正的 "枕河", 三面有窗, 凭窗可观市河风光. 这样描述故乡的水阁, 人家的后门外就是河, 站在后门口 - 那就是水阁的门 - 可以用吊桶打水, 午夜梦回, 可以听得橹声唉乃, 飘然而过.
水阁是由一位机智的豆腐倌的违章建筑而来, 可是随着时间的迁移, 许多历史都已烟消云散, 唯有这集生活的实用与享受于一体的建筑形式因着人们的喜爱而得以保存和延续从某种意义上来说, 水阁是乌镇的灵气所在, 虽然它没有奢华, 难比高楼. 有了水阁, 乌镇的人与水更为亲密, 有了水阁, 乌镇的风貌更有韵味, 有了水阁, 乌镇的气质更为悠雅. 有了水阁, 乌镇的历史添了一份委婉. 水阁是乌镇的独创, 是乌镇的魅力所在.
Wuzhen is the archetypal charming Chinese city a traveler to China would like to visit. Like that in many Chinese cities, the entry of Wuzhen was indicated by the presence of an imposing stone door where ancient Chinese characters could be witnessed. What is the best way to circulate in Wuzhen? By boat and on foot! A sweet and charming scenic town preserved form the nearby sprawling modernization. My visit to Wuzhen was a memorable one. The place is home to numerous scenic areas among which the best ones will definitely stay when I stayed upon one of the numerous stone bridges looking at the boats gently steering their way into the canals. In many ways, Wuzhen depicted some characteristics of the Italian Venice for me. The houses and few streets are just stopping on the border of the canal, giving to the place a picturesque image of delicacy and charm. Photography enthusiasts are just in heaven in this place where no picture can be sullied by a Pepsi coke advertisement or small goods shops with China Mobile posters. Wuzhen is the postcard-like Chinese town I was expecting before i arrived at Hangzhou and which is still making me dream about the marvelous thousands sceneries that China enjoys.
The best way to get around Wu Zhen is to hop onto one of the boats. This place is so photogenic. Every corner that i walk around leads to another amazing view.
乌镇是典型的江南水乡古镇, 素有 "鱼米之乡, 丝绸之府" 之称. 一条流水贯穿全镇, 它以水为街, 以岸为市, 两岸房屋建筑全面向河水, 形成了水乡迷人的风光. 水中不时有乌篷船依呀往返, 岸边店铺林立叫卖声不绝于耳.
Wuzhen is divided into six districts. These are: traditional workshops district, traditional local-styled dwelling houses district, traditional culture district, traditional food and beverage district, traditional shops and stores district, and water township customs and life district. Wandering around these six districts, tourists can witness re-enactment of traditional practices and cultures.
One may also walk amongst the picturesque moss-covered streets and walls, the houses decorated with exquisitely-carved wooden and stone doors and windows, and the leisurely and quiet life of the local people in the district of traditional local-styled dwelling houses. Sink into the atmosphere of traditional culture, have a cup of tea and relax by bargaining on various kinds of handicrafts and local products.
The outsides of these buildings belong to the Ming and Qing Dynasties architectures, while the insides are equipped with air conditions, natural gas, broadband network, satellite TV and so on. It is a harmony between ancient and modern.
同时, Wu Zhen 还保存了座各具特色的古桥. Wu Zhen 是水的世界, 古镇四面环水, 犹如浮在水上的一朵睡莲. 河道形成 “井” 字形, 有河有街必有桥, 因桥成街, 因桥成市, 桥桥相望, 桥桥相连, 为水乡周庄增添了魅力.
走进乌镇, 走在那用青石板铺成的狭窄的小街上, 看到两边各式各样的民居和仍住在民房中的乡民, 就会让人有一种亲切自然的感觉. 作为历史古镇, 乌镇无论是整个镇还是观前街, 都体现着一种人文环境和自然环境和谐相处的整体美. 走进这个充满了农业文化氛围的古镇, 漫步于古镇绵延一里多长的石板小街上, 可以倾听脚步在另一小巷上的回音.
You can imagine or picture such a nice scene: When you get up early in the morning, the sun light gets in through the windows, the air is perfumed with the delicate smell of woods. And when you open the window, you can see the river flowing down your house and women washing their clothes by the shore. If you go there in a good time, there are little people in the town and you can walk around on your own. The air is fresh and wet, with a little fog. You will see many ancient stone bridges, local people said that every bridge has its own story, have a seat and listen to their stories and time passes so fast at this time. People here are very kind and passionate, they often offer out their best food for the guest. After dinner, all things will quiet down. Staying in your room, looking out of the window when darkness gather, the light which came from street lamps will wink just like starlight. You may even hear the sound of the children having a frolic before bedtime, or some traditional Chinese music before going to bed with a peace of mind.
That was how I felt during my Wuzhen trip. And of course, this is a good feeling as I always prefer more of such a living environment - the peaceful, comfort town that can give you a relaxed life which you can never experience living in a big city.
坐在船上游览, 穿桥过洞, 颇有情趣. 每穿过一个桥洞就出现一种景色, 每拐过一座桥堍, 又另有一种意境, 从不同角度构成一幅美妙的 "小桥, 流水, 人家" 的水乡风情画. Wu Zhen 环境清静优雅, 是读书的好地方, 也颇有读书的好传统, 历史上曾出过进士, 举人20 多人.
乌镇与别的古镇最大的区别就在于她保持了水乡的原生态, 被人们称为生活着的千年古镇. 在古镇中依然生活着淳厚善良的老百姓, 依然延续着历经千年而不衰的田歌, 刺绣, 剪纸, 木雕, 砖雕, 版画, 越剧等人文脉络. 乌镇已经成为艺术家们描绘江南水乡的圣地, 专家们研究民俗文化的基地, 游客们躲避喧嚣释放压力的净地.
乌镇原汁原味的水乡风情, 淳朴的民风民俗是一个 "天然摄影棚", 深受国内外电影公司的推崇.
As a typical water town of south of the Yangtze River, Wuzhen can not go without bridges. It is said that Wuzhen once possessed more than 120 bridges. But only 30 of them remain now. Most of the bridges are made of stone with elegant designs. What is more, there is a sight called “Bridge within a Bridge”. Sounds quite special, right?
如果你有幸能在除了节假日或周末的时间去, 那么你一定能体会到最贴近生活的乌镇, 安静, 走在路上你都不想大声说话, 就这么散散步, 吹吹风, 喝喝茶, 你便想从此能留在乌镇生活该多好. 他不像西塘, 周庄都是个体开发, 想怎么弄就怎么弄, 乌镇是整体规划而成哦, 景区内所有的房间只能通过官网预订, 所有居民在镇外都有政府分配的房子, 再回来过上下班的生活, 没有小路可以逃票, 进西栅必须坐船, 绿化, 灯光, 建筑全部一气呵成. 走在里面你不会发现很浓郁的商业气息, 没有乱七八糟的小商品摊位, 没有扑出来的万三蹄髈, 没有任何的娇柔和做作.
A one day visit of Wuzhen is long enough to enjoy all the parts of the city. To have a picnic lunch nearby the canal with the boats and traditional houses as only skyline is since then the best memory I have kept of Wuzhen I think. Anyway, there are just so much! I could discover by myself the little paths and streets where local people, traditional houses, workshops and other little interesting spots display themselves at every corner.
While visiting Hangzhou, Suzhou or Shanghai and having some time to do an extra visit at just a few kilometers away form all of them, don't miss the opportunity to take a break at Wuzhen. If you are tired of the busy life, noisy and congested city, maybe it’s the time to relax yourself by making a trip to this part of Southern China. My pictures speak for themselves, you'll never regret it ! :-)
Generally speaking, a travel to China is not a meaningless experience for whoever has the chance to live this odyssey, the country being filled with such a huge number of tourist scenic spots, historical, cultural and natural sceneries. Visiting the country for just a few days, a month or even more, China is just a country where travelers can live adventure and fascination intertwined at the same time. The life at this WuZhen seems to be so calm for the people living here. A relaxing visit that I'll never forget and that gave me an everlasting picturesque memory!
来到乌镇, 走在石道上, 看着眼前一栋栋旧如活历史的古建建筑, 随意信步. 一个转弯, 也许是一条幽密的小巷, 一个转弯, 又或是一条阅院, 走来走去, 早已迷失方向, 不过谁在呼呢? 也许是因为暖暖的阳光吧, 总觉得来这儿就应该带着一个好心情与一份惘意感, 任凭乌镇带我前往我所应该去的地方. 嗯, 真是舒服.
去一个地方, 留下记忆的不单是它的风景, 还有一份心情, 乌镇就是这样的一个地方. 乌镇自助游乌镇来过就不曾离开. 乌镇给我的感觉, 就是一个 MAN 字, 看看镇上一栋栋的古建筑, 没有繁琐多余的雕墚书栋, 走的是纯朴古实风, 直来直往, 不拐弯抹角. 我想乌镇人生活真的很实在, 他们生活间实安遇, 重识农耕, 见到那种优美纯朴的詹壁在蓝天中闪闪生辉, 造型秀丽的古塔古诗恬静怡然地宁立一旁, 老人们无事地聚集在门口聊天. 这一切, 都会让人觉得这里真是远离鹿器的好地方. 不得不再说一句, 能来这里真是太好了.
Hangzhou 梦幻杭州之旅 - Part 3 - To be continued....
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