Here goes the Part 4 of my recent trip to the scenic and picturesque Hangzhou - Nan Song Yu Jie and Qing He Fang Ancient Street 逛街感怀老杭州活古韵的南宋御街和老字号第一街的河坊街. There are actually many shopping streets in Hangzhou. These streets are not only for shopping but also for some nostalgic viewing. Hangzhou's main shopping streets have all their special characteristics. Hangzhou marketplaces are varied and special too. Dubbed “Southern Song Imperial Street 南宋杭州御街” this pedestrian shopping street is situated at one of Hangzhou’s historic thoroughfares. Renovated in an architectural style associated with the South Song Dynasty (Hangzhou was the capital), Nan Song Yu Jie 南宋杭州御街 is a must-see attraction, with crowds keep coming back to check out its distinctive architecture, shopping opportunities and numerous Chinese and Western restaurants. For a walk back in time in Hangzhou, i strongly recommend you to take a stroll along the preserved Nan Song Yu Jie 南宋杭州御街 and Qing He Fang Ancient Street 河坊街. 我知道这样说有人一定会觉得牵强, 但我是真的这样想, 旅行中最有趣的一件事就是逛街. 藉由逛街来了解一个城市, 是最快又最有效的方法. 但这逛街, 可不是指单纯的走马看花, 血拼到处都有的寻常东西, 或是单单买些衣服纪念品而已. 逛街要如何逛, 血拼的血要怎么流才会有价值, 都有它一定的道理. 比方我会到当地才有的百货公司或购物的地方: 像纽约的 Barney's, 曼谷的 Siam 区, 通常这里是当地中产限级最爱来购物的地方, 藉由这些品牌或商品, 我们很快就会知道这个城市的主流属所喜欢的东西是哪些. 比方我会到当地才有的传统市集或是跳搔市场, 如曼谷的 Chatuchak 周末市集, 香港的庙街, 来体验一下当地才有的本土特色, 跟着当地人吃吃喝喝, 疯狂大挖宝, 所以逛街不是那么浮浅的是事吧....这挡子事可也是有深度有文化的呢.... 所以到杭州我们要怎么来体验这份逛街寻宝乐呢? 建议大家到最有皇城味的南宋御街来体验充满历史的游乐味, 想像一下以前的人是怎么生活怎么娱乐的. 藉由这些体验. 我们来深入杭州最道地的生活. 这儿的一切都是贴近人心的, 与生活息息相关的. 来这儿就等于亲眼见证了一段活生生的历史. 南宋杭州御街, 又名天街或大街, 因为这条路, 贯穿京城南北, 长达十里, 故名 "十里天街" 或大街, 因这条街, 是专供皇帝通行的道路, 而禁止百姓, 官员行走的道路, 又名禁街. 其实, 这条南宋御街, 许多人不了解, 早在唐末五代吴越国的杭州官道, 南宋时在此基础上延长, 拓展整治而成的. 这条御街, 又是十分幸运, 南宋灭亡后虽多有改变, 或分段命名, 路基也有破坏, 但总体说, 其道路走向始终未变, 只是在民国时期又把几段路名重新联接起来, 取名中山路, 是为了纪念辛亥革命的领导者孙中山先生. 因为有十多里长, 而分段取名于中山南路, 中山中路与中山北路. 近几年, 在这条中山路也发现了南宋御街的遗址与文物, 就是最好的证明. 杭州的南宋御街路基, 800 年之后还是如此, 保存得相当完整, 这在全国极为罕见, 是杭州历史文物的最珍贵的遗产, 独有的宝贝. 800多年前, 中山路是南宋都城临安的主轴线御街. 几百年来, 它一直是杭州重要的城市商业中心所在和老城中轴线. 中山路两侧, 坊巷, 里弄连绵不绝, 南宋时的坊巷结构至今犹存, 是杭州市井生活保存得最为完整的区域. 中山路步行街疏通和修复 18条 小弄小巷, 打通中山路与后市街, 光复路的联系. 在这些坊巷中, 可以听到老杭州话, 逛老店铺, 泡茶馆店, 体验 "闹街静巷", "长街幽巷" 的独特韵味. Hangzhou's Southern Song Imperial Street, a re-creation of what Hangzhou looked like seven centuries ago, is a popular destination for tourists and natives alike. A 20-minute walk from the central business district near scenic West Lake, the street was rebuilt in 2008 to demonstrate the vibrant commerce and colorful life of the folk people in the past dynasty. The long pedestrian street is the crossroads where the past and present merge. Along a gently flowing brook, there are specialized shops selling silk, tea and silver. Some chain hotels are built in the ancient style to remind people that they are staying in a historical place. Vendors sit peacefully by their grocery stalls as if they were taking a break instead of doing a business. 中山路镌刻着杭州城市的基因, 记载着杭州城市的辉煌. 它曾是800年前南宋都城的御街, 两侧官府, 宅第, 店铺林立, 坊巷众多, "八百里湖山知是何年图画, 十万家烟火尽归此处楼台" 就是当年南宋御街的真实写照. 它也曾是民国时期杭州人气最旺, 最为繁华的街道, 人们在这里说杭州话, 住老房子, 走老街巷, 逛老店铺, 淘老东西, 看老邻居....千百年来, 杭州人在这里出生成长, 生活居住, 购物消费, 工作创业, 对中山路有着独特感情和永恒记忆. 中山路周边是杭州主城区历史最悠久, 遗存最丰富, 历史风貌和民间生活最完整的片区, 其空间格局, 街巷形态, 地名体系和字号门店等, 都保存着杭州这座城市各个时代的历史, 文化和生活的信息, 保存着大量 "活化的历史基因". 保护中山路, 就是保护杭州的 "根" 和 "魂", 就是对杭州历史的尊重, 就是为杭州人民谋福祉. 鼓楼到河坊街段现有建筑立面形式很多, 主要包括下店上宅式和西洋式. 对不同类型的建筑, 将结合其特点进行独立设计, 保留其自身建筑特色. 游览南宋御街中山路, 最适宜的交通工具是电瓶观光车. 观光车招手即停 票价5元. 观光车从吴山广场出发, 走河坊街, 大井巷, 中山中路到凤凰寺, 一路招手即停, 票价5元. 一辆观光车能坐 10 个人, 不到 1 米的孩子免费乘坐. 半途想下车, 跟司机说一下就行. 之所以我会选择这里作为自己的调整地, 是因为这里的恬静和清幽. 在这条街道上, 两侧有流水和遮天的桐树, 即使在炎热的夏季, 你也会在这里感受到难的的清凉, 麻石路面平整而古朴, 道路两旁的建筑大部分始建于上个实际的早期, 配合了街边新建的小景, 实在是别有风味. 这里虽然仍处于城市的中心区域, 但你会深感远离了现代城市的喧嚣. 这里几乎难以听到现代城市的各种噪音, 也没有让你要么心惊胆颤, 要么莫名其妙的横幅, 有的除了恬静清幽, 还是恬静清幽. 我在正午时坐在街道边的石凳上, 闭上眼, 倾听这里的声音. 北边和西边, 各种城市噪音若隐若现, 使你实在不敢相信那边就是这座城市的繁华之地, 从那里向西, 之需要步行10余分钟就到达了西湖边, 东边虽然紧邻交通繁忙的中河高架桥, 但由于建筑物的遮挡, 几乎听不到那些道路上的噪音, 南边则仅能听到轻柔的行人脚步声和说笑声, 间或会有操着不知是哪里口音的游客, 高声大叫地暂时打破这样宁静的气氛. 如果你睁开眼来看这条街道, 你将更佳直接地感受到这里的清幽和古朴. 且不说那古朴的街道和深幽的小巷, 就是那些上个世纪初期建成的中西合璧的建筑, 也向你传达着一份安宁和祥和. 在这里, 随便一处建筑就会有近百年或更久远的历史. 我从北向南逐一查看这些建筑, 发现这些建筑在当时以药店居多, 间或有其他行业参杂其间, 而现在, 除了少数如位于惠民路口的景阳观仍在经营当年的营生外, 其他的多北用于经营金银珠宝玉器了. 这条街上一处建于 1926 年的浙江实业银行旧址, 现在被浙江省副食商业协会和一家贸易公司所占据, 而一处 1918 年建成的鞋庄, 则被用于经营黄金珠宝. 最让我惊讶的是位于河坊街路口的一处麦当McDonald's, 与它的同类们迥然不同地坐落在一处三层楼房的中西合璧建筑内. 虽然这里有足够的宁静, 但绝对不影响旅行者必须的那些要求. 这条街上聚集着多家快捷酒店, 而与这条街相交的高银街绝对是满足口腹之欲的所在, 这里有传统杭帮菜和现代杭帮菜, 也有来自五湖四海的其他菜系. 同样与这条街相交并平行于高银街的河坊街, 则是购买各种旅行纪念品的地方. 连吃喝玩耍都可以这么地有历史, 我想也只有像杭州这样的古城才感受得到. 咚, 咚, 咚, 眼前来了台仿古的南宋御街观光车. 这儿的路程可不短, 想逛完这儿, 可是要有精力. 坐上车吧, 让我们来感受一下南宋御街那股时光悠悠之风情 ! Though many Chinese cities may seem on the surface to be labyrinth of concrete and steel, travelers need only a deeper look at a city's culture and history to find what makes it unique. Hangzhou which was once the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, is reliving its glory days by merging its rich history with the city's modern prosperity. At the end of the imperial streets, you will see Hefang Street 河坊街. Opened in 2002, it is considered to be the historical street in Hangzhou most representative of the city's cultural background. Hefang Street has become an essential destination for new tourists to the city. Here they can buy silk products, tea and local dim sum as souvenirs or just take a sip of coffee in a modern chain restaurant like McDonald's. 你若想更了解老杭州, 不妨去河坊街走一走. 河坊街自 2002 年整修后, 街两侧的房子都是一色的木结构, 青瓦片, 不油漆, 显得古色古香, 成为一条颇具特色的历史商业街. 这里有名小吃, 有老字号店铺, 有民间艺人的绝活表演等. 徜徉河坊街, 冷不丁你会遇到 "皇帝", "格格" 坐着轿子, 前呼后拥, 显得好威风, 有穿着古代服装的人在不停地吆喝, 叫卖各种工艺品....再现了 "自古钱塘繁华" 的盛景. 河坊街, 是一条有着悠久历史和深厚文化底蕴的古街. 河坊古街是杭州古都风俗民情的集中再现, 因为河坊街能维持明清时期的古风, 像经营玉器, 明清瓷器, 名人字画的古董店, 穿着长袍, 拎着长嘴铜茶壶为客人斟茶的 "茶博士", 摇着木纺车, 为顾客现场纺纱的 "吴越人家" 布艺品店....连小店里卖麦芽糖块的男子, 也穿着长衫摇着拨浪鼓招徕顾客. 橙黄色的瓦片, 青白色的骑墙, 明晃锃亮的牌楼, 昨晚的清河坊历史街区在冷暖相宜的光照下显得愈加韵味十足. 这是河坊街的亮灯工程试验. 游人纷纷驻足观看并不时发出赞叹, 灯光如此精致, 人们在被勾勒出的古建筑的线条中徜徉, 仿佛回到了明清时代. Hefang street 河坊街 is a bustling shopping street in Hangzhou said to be designed in an “old” Song dynasty style China. Always busy and crowded, full of shops and restaurants, this is the place to go for some serious mainland people watching, local snacks, and relatively expensive tourist souvenirs. It’s only a few blocks from West Lake. Qinghe Fang is the name of a block, not only a street and Hefang Jie belongs to Qinghe Fang Area. Qinghe Fang is the old block of Hangzhou which has been well preserved and it is a concentration of the centuries-old history and culture of the ancient Hangzhou city. Qinghe Fang has attracted tourists both home and abroad because of the ancient architecture style and folk-custom. Hefang Jie may be the most convenient and eldest place for souvenir shopping. It is a pedestrian street with tons upon tons of little booths or shops selling various interesting or strange products of Hangzhou. All long this street, you can find fans, woodcarvings, tea, trinkets and silk products, and also teahouse, restaurants, food stalls, etc. Enjoy the buildings as you stroll along the street is quite a unique feeling. 在河坊街, 坐落着一座忠义亭, 亭中伫立着用樟木雕刻而成的关羽将军, 身佩宝剑, 手拿大刀, 显得威风凛凛. 人们非常敬仰他, 他也仿佛成了古街商家的保护神. 去河坊街是一种享受, 这里的小吃实在多, 有南宋糕点, 姑嫂饼, 桂花月亮糕, 定胜糕, 芝麻糊, 还有那闻起来臭, 吃起来香的臭豆腐, 油炸活蝎子, 你们敢吃吗? 你上街走一回, 包你吃成大肚子. 河坊街上玩的东西也多, 会叫的小鸭子, 可以吹的小鸟, 空中溜溜球, 光扑克牌变戏法就有十几种, 一家魔术店就会让你站上老半天. 尤其值得一提的是这里的民间艺人绝活, 更是一道亮丽的风景线. 他们中有捏泥人的, 有雕刻陶瓷的, 有用草编织蜻蜓, 蝴蝶的, 可谓八仙过海, 各显神通. Built by the businessman Hu Xueyan in the Qing Dynasty, Huqingyutang is now a major cultural relic under national protection. It has an area about 3,000 square meters with a unique design. There are more than 160 pieces of cultural relics collected in it. It is not only a place to provide visitors with decoction of Chinese traditional medicine, but also a place for visitors to appreciate the features of ancient buildings. The Taijie TeaHouse was managed by the offspring of Zheng family which started teahouse business as early as late Emperor Qianlong Period of Qing Dynasty. Taiji Teahouse pays great attention to water quality, tea quality and tea preparation skills. It now has over 6800 disciples and over 530 franchised teahouses at home and abroad. Sit here to taste tea while listen to bagatelle, you can fully feel the historical atmosphere of Qinghefang. 坐落于河坊街历史街区, 是中国茶馆业唯一的 "中华老字号", 全国仅有的两位 "茶状元" 也都出自该茶馆. 经历 240 多年风雨, 太极茶道苑依然原汁原味保留着晚清茶馆古朴风貌. 茶馆用雨水泡茶, 技法讲究, 状元红等, 都是茶馆独家招牌茶. 茶博士穿蓝长衫, 戴瓜皮小帽, 提壶续水,挥洒自如, 个个都是一身绝活. 茶馆还设有博物馆, 各式老铺依次排成 "老街". "太极茶道行茶技法" 是太极茶道的一大绝技. 茶博士取长嘴壶, 自二楼向楼下酙茶, 从身体各处演绎 "罗汉茶礼", "道家行茶" 等技艺, 每到精妙绝伦处, 茶客无不击节叫. 太极茶道苑门口立着 "老茶倌" 铜像, 店堂内板凳板桌, 烟熏老墙, 评弹小调回荡其间. Qinghefang Ancient Street is an old street block which is preserved relatively well in Hangzhou. Presently, there are still 16 old street / lanes. These streets are mostly arranged lengthways and supported with transverse arrangement. The constructions between the lanes and the streets have high density. The lanes are thin, long and zigzag. Watching from the entrance of the lane, it looks quite deep. The static state and dynamic visual effects are integrated with each other and give you a strong impression of old life. Qinghefang has an uncommon culture and heritage. For several generations, this is a place for residence, sightseeing and business. The ancient constructions preserved at the street block are mostly of the style of late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China. It is also the only historical section well preserved in the ancient town. It shows the characteristics of modern architecture of 1920s and 1930s when "the wind of Western blows slightly to the East’. Qinhefang, after repair and reform, keeps basically former citizens. To the citizens who stay here, "the maps of reform and repair" are drawn carefully door by door in order to protect effectively the facticity of the history, the integrality of the appearance and the continuity of the life. 到杭州玩, 没有不去清河坊的. 清河坊是杭州悠久历史的一个缩影, 南宋定都杭州后, 筑九里皇城, 开十里天街. 于是, 在宫城外围, 天街两侧, 皇亲国戚, 权贵内侍纷纷修建宫室私宅. 而清河坊的得名, 与当时的太师张俊有关, 建炎三年,张俊在明州 (今宁波) 击退金兵, 取得高桥大捷, 晚年封为清河郡王, 倍受宠遇. 他在今河坊街太平巷建有清河郡王府, 故这一带就被称为 "清河坊". 而河坊街的小吃, 更是闻名遐迩. 住在这里, 感受杭州, 体会西子, 会让您如画如梦, 画杭州动与静的融合, 梦西子那古老的神韵和现代的秀丽婀娜. The redeveloped Qinghefang Ancient Street now exudes an atmosphere of its past and is boastful of its street-culture, entertainment, commerce and the tours that are the attention of its citizens and visitors home and abroad. Most of the existing old buildings in the streets are in the style of late Qing Dynasty's and the well-preserved 'four-corner buildings group' are the masterpiece example of traditional blocks of Hangzhou. Viewed from the end of the block, it is visually pleasing combining both the static structures and the dynamics of the people milling about. The culture of tea, medicine, food and various hundred-year old shops as well as folk artists and small stalls fully incarnated the lifestyle and habits of people in old Hangzhou. The Qinghefang Street has restored its history and culture. Nowadays, Qinghefang History Street is one of the worldly favorite spots, perfectly gathering the functions of dining, shopping, staying, entertainments, etcDuring the certain period or according to season, the hilarious gatherings and the folk festivals are held at Qinghefang History Street. The abundant activities and the versatile performances are the best representation of Chinese culture and history. The modern pedestrian street overwhelmed in the lasting cultural atmosphere will make your China travel the most splendid experience. Qinghefang History Street has gathered numerous century-old shops, tea houses, restaurants and folk vendors and you may find the civilian vitality on this characteristic street. The non-stop performances, folk culture and the classical architecture attract your eyes everywhere and anytime. The typical specialties and snacks are waiting for you to taste. The famous souvenirs, such as Hangzhou scissors, fans, umbrellas, ham and so on are popular gifts with which you may understand and appreciate Chinese culture.
河坊街的仿古建築是遊客来杭州必到之处, 第一次来到杭州给我的感觉就是一个很适合生活的地方, 这里也是我在中国里见过较文明及有礼貌的城市. 我在这杭州著名的旧街游闲的当儿, 仿佛做了一场怀旧的清梦. 很清净, 很休闲的地方. 感觉回到了慢步调的时代. 暂时放下浮躁的心, 漫步在南宋御街和河坊街, 看着街边的店和招牌, 感觉即放松又开眼界 ! Hangzhou 梦幻杭州之旅 - Part 5 - To be continued....
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