Here goes the Part 2 of my recent trip to Hong Kong 香港 - A historic Fishing Village named 鲤鱼门 Lei Yue Mun located near 油塘 Yau Tong MTR Station.
The moon passage fishing village trapped between the slowly sprawling jungle on the one side and the rampant urban behemoth that is Hong Kong on the other. The line between shanty town and fishing village is very narrow here but what comes from it can only be described as the finest display of seafood I have ever seen.
搭14号巴士是油佐线 (油塘至佐敦道), 由鲤鱼门小巴商会 (佐墩至油塘分会) 营办, 来往鲤鱼门及佐敦道 (吴松街), 为一条客量甚高的小巴路线. 此线提供鲤鱼门, 蓝田来往土瓜湾及佐敦之服务, 途经观塘道及太子道东. 此线还兼容不少的中短途客, 例如由佐敦前往土瓜湾, 或由土瓜湾前往油塘的乘客.
Located on the Kowloon side of the narrow eastern entrance to Hong Kong Harbour, the small fishing village at Lei Yue Mun first came into prominence in the 1960s, when it became fashionable to go there for its seafood. At that time, most diners would select their own live seafood from the fish market, and then take it to a restaurant for cooking. Many still do, but with many more restaurants now in business, you can make your selection closer to your table.
A little background of this Fishing Village - Lei Yue Mun is the eastern gate into the Victoria Harbour, hence it serves an important trade route in and out of the South China Sea. By definition, the “Lei Yue Mun” area covers both the Hong Kong Island side, with its strategic vantage point for military purposes (hence that’s where you’ll find the Hong Kong Coastal Defence Museum) and Kowloon side, with its bustling seafood market where Hong Kongers traded their catch of the day for many years.
鲤鱼门已有超过150年历史, 昔日的村民大部分是农夫, 渔民和矿工. 及至六十年代, 渔村开始出现菜馆, 并逐渐发展成为驰名的海鲜美食区.
当时, 大部分顾客会先到鱼市场挑选鲜活海产, 然后交给菜馆烹调. 现在, 鲤鱼门的菜馆数目增加了不少, 顾客除了可在海鲜摊档挑选海产以外, 还可在菜馆点选现烹的海鲜菜式.
现今香港大厦林立, 人多车也多, 一片现代化的景象, 大家也很难想像香港在一百年前还是一个落後的渔村. 无疑都市化的生活带给人们很多的方便，但很多人如笔者一样, 有时候也会怕生活太过挤迫. 闹市中要找一点休憩的地方已不容易, 更何况要找寂静平淡的生活? 反樸归真, 偶尔间走到小小的渔村, 或许可以给生活一点喘息.
From Yau Tong MTR station, one has to walk through the dusty streets of its industrial estate before spotting the unmistakable arch, where the Lei Yue Mun village begins. As you step into the Lei Yue Mun Praya (which, incidentally, meant “boulevard along the water front” in Spanish, or so I was told), it does felt like as if you have stepped back in time. The rustic, unhurried lifestyle of the old Hong Kong engulfs you with its old buildings, connected by a tapestry of maze which, amazingly, won’t get you hopelessly lost.
Living up to its name as the trading post for seafood in Hong Kong, the covered alleyways of Lei Yue Mun was crammed with all manners of seafood; alive, dead and everything in between. The variety of seafood available was mind-boggling, even for a seafood lover like yours truly.
下了小公汽车, 眼前是被堤防围起来的狭小的内港. 在港口的山一侧, 有细长的海滨休息公园, 沿着港口, 穿过公园, 在大海与山之间的小小的陆地, 排列着鲜鱼店及菜屋. 鲜鱼店的鲜鱼, 贝类均养在水槽内, 内有亚热带特有的鱼类及巨大的虾.
"鲤鱼门" 这三个字相信大家都不觉得陌生, 鲤鱼门名称之由来是因为以前中国内陆一带有很多鲤鱼群出没, 鲤鱼群会由中国内陆游经鲤鱼门海域, 因此被称为鲤鱼门. 鲤鱼门共分成4条渔村, 分别是：鲤西村, 马湾村, 马背村及安利西村. 村落已有超过一百五十年历史, 过往村民以耕种, 捕鱼及采矿为生.
从地铁观塘站乘小公汽约十分钟, 就可看到在小港内停泊的水上生活者们的船只可看到船上晾晒的衣物及锅碗瓢盆等生活日用品. 在港口与山峦之间狭小的陆上, 是鲜鱼店及餐馆. 带有盐分的房屋墙壁的色彩, 给人感觉就是一个小渔村, 至今仍是简朴恬静.
自鲤鱼门的牌坊步入, 首先吸引的, 必然是位于海旁的海鲜酒家那炫目的招牌和三家村避风塘水上的倒影. 走入鲤鱼门的主要大街海傍路, 便会见到路两旁不但海鲜酒家林立, 还有很多海产摊档, 摆放着各类型不同大小的鱼, 虾, 龙虾, 螺, 蚬, 蚌等, 琳琅满目, 让人马上感到进入了一个如旅游资料所介绍的海鲜旅游点.
The fishing village is located in the far eastern part of Kowloon. It is completely surrounded by high rise apartment yet retains its true native Chinese fisherman style atmosphere with a drop dead view of Hong Kong Island across the Bay!
每逢假日, 很多钓鱼发烧友都会聚集在鲤鱼门码头附近等地方垂钓, 他们的鱼获分别是鱼, 班, 火点, 油追等.
鲤鱼门海傍道, 满佈各大海鲜酒家. 这些酒家与摊档都座落在一些平房的下层或临时的建筑物中, 而不是像香港其它繁华地区的海鲜酒家那样, 在高层的商场中营业. 海鲜档老板或员工通常站在门口, 向人推介他们的招牌货.
鲤鱼门众多海鲜菜馆之中, 除了有新加入的新派海鲜食肆外, 亦不乏老字号的海鲜酒家, 它们构思别出心裁的美食, 又定时推出特别优惠. 顾客亦可到区内的多个海鲜摊档亲自挑选心爱的生猛海产, 大快朵颐.
既然到了鲤鱼门, 就务必要品尝海鲜. 首先可在鲜鱼店选择鱼类, 也可将自己想吃的东西告诉店员, 请他帮助挑选. 其次选择烹制的菜馆, 菜馆的选择需凭经验. 选好了店铺, 就可以选择材料及喜欢的烹调方法请店家烹调. 美食家可以将烹调法指示给店家来做. 不明白的人也可全部委托店家.
That’s another discovery of Hong Kong for me, where the old meets the new in a fusion of East meets the West. Visiting Lei Yue Mun as a whole was a good experience, especially so since it is a hidden gem in the city. This place is another part of this epicurean gastronomic delight to savour and explore! I highly suggest to everyone to go and experience this very unique rustic fishing village in Hong Kong. :-)
原来鲤鱼门就在油塘附近, 甚么在油塘地铁站行去, 路程也不需几十分钟. 由于有许多家户人住在油塘, 所以大时大节他们也会到油塘吃饭. 谁不知, 原来神秘的鲤鱼门就只是近在咫尺. 有时, 有些事情, 有些人, 就在不知不觉中, 变得这么近, 那么远.
事实上, 在东南九龙半岛上, 观塘, 油塘及将军澳均已高度发展, 唯独鲤鱼门仍然依旧保留其百多年来纯朴的乡村风貌, 大家可以亲身感受香港这条具百年历史的小渔村的特色哦 ! :-)
Hong Kong 香港 - Part 3 - To be continued....