Here goes the Part 5 of my recent trip to Hong Kong - 庙街 Famous Temple Street located near Jordan MTR Station 佐敦站. I took time to visit Temple Street and the market that takes place there each evening. I went early, around 6pm, just as the vendors were setting up their stands. Reaching Temple Street slightly earlier before sun down will also give you a better chance at the inventory as the market tends to get very crowded at night. This blog post on Temple Street is to a pay a tribute to all who had led their whole life at this street in Hong Kong as well as to actors / actresses who had also played their great roles in movies featuring this famous street. 关于庙街, 爱看港片的童鞋绝不会陌生. 电影里经常听见老大跟小弟们说, 当年我从庙街一直打到尖沙咀再到铜锣湾, 才有今天的地位. 可想而知, 庙街是什么样的地方. 很多港片在那里取景, 并以他命名. 如庙街故事, 庙街十二少, 庙街皇后, 庙街妈兄弟, 庙街12少, 庙街豪情, 庙街十三妹, 庙街十三少等等.... 庙街, 应该说是标准的市井香港形象的代表. 对于没有到过香港的人来说, 庙街总有些神秘, 庙街是 "庙街故事" 里郑依健和吴倩莲演绎的江湖与爱情, 是 "食神" 里周星驰展开恩怨情愁的剧场, 是 "庙街十二少" 里刘德华和他十二个干爹干妈的纷繁故事, 是 "新不了情" 里刘青云的一段情缘. 然而庙街到底是什么? 有没有大佬, 古惑仔和那港片中颇具特色的西瓜刀? 街头有没有邂逅与浪漫? 这里与中环林立的高楼, 迪斯尼快乐的天空到底构成了怎样的香港全景? Jordan came into existence in 1979, when the MTR opened a station of the same name. It became a neighbourhood in its own right and is now home to one of Hong Kong's well-known attractions - Temple Street Night Market. 清朝时期, 庙街的中段建有一座天后庙, 即油麻地天后庙, 庙街因而得名. 庙街位於香港九龙油尖旺区中的油麻地, 是香港一条富有特色的街道. 街道南北走向, 连接文明里及佐敦道. 曾有不少电影以庙街取景. 香港有很多不同的特色街道, 而且部份更是越夜越精彩, 庙街便是其中一个表表者, 每到晚上这里便会热闹起来. 庙街以售卖平价货的夜市而闻名, 这里素有 "平民夜总会" 的称号. 由於庙街的性质与旺角的女人街相似, 而到访的人则以男性为主, 故亦有男人街的称号. Temple Street at Hong Kong is another of the markets worth visiting to see the local side of this place. Temple Street is located near Yau Ma Tei and Jordan in Hong Kong's lively Kowloon area. It is famous for its night market which is undeniably one of the busiest in the city. The place was actually built during the Qing Dynasty and got its name after a temple to Tin Hau was established there. It is also popularly called Men's Street, as there are a number of places that cater exclusively to men's fashion. Although the market opens for business by around 2 pm in the afternoon, it does not really get into the swing of things until dusk. As the sun starts to go down, the street is closed to vehicular traffic and people (locals and foreigners alike) throng the area for a night of food, shopping and fun. 如果你想逛一逛庙街, 唯一要注意的是不宜太早前去, 要到晚上八时左右庙街才开始热闹. 庙街分南北两段, 庙街因邻近天后庙而有此一称呼, 是香港久享盛名的夜市, 又因设立不少专卖男性衣物的摊位. 香港年轻一辈, 多以 "老庙" 作为庙街的俗称. 每天下午五时后街侧开始摆满摊档, 售卖货品琳琳种种, 价钱便宜 (大概三十元左右, 某些物品更低至五至十元不等), 而且选择良多, 满街都是特色小食的摊档, 提供地道香港美食如海鲜, 是游客闻名必到之地. 到访的每位游人都能充份领略到香港文化风情, 是充满香港地道文化味道的夜市, 香港很多电影曾多次以庙街为题材及在此取景拍成电影. 同在油麻地的通菜街, 因为售卖女性用品, 被港人称为 "女人街", 而庙街过去主要售卖男性服装, 也就约定俗成地被叫做 "男人街". 不过, 庙街的确有些鱼龙混杂.在那些固定摊档的中间, 在灯光稍暗之处, 赫然可见数名男子用几只纸箱搭成一个简易摊位, 上面不是摆着盗版光碟, 就是摆着没上税的香烟, 明显干着非法的勾当, 初来乍到的游客来这里观光还是小心点儿好. 庙街中亦有不少黑社会份子, 所以游客们要小心, 以免招来不必要的争执或损失啊. 庙街是香港早期烟花之地, 因此不乏假冒真货的翻版或冒牌产品, 游客在选购心头好时, 必须多加提防, 以免受骗, 在庙街消费购物. 除了食物以外, 一般其他活动都可以进行议价. 通常档主开出的价钱, 会是最终成交价的二至三倍, 也就是说, 只要掌握到讨价还价的技巧, 往往可以6折或3折的价钱将心头好买到手. 庙街不算长, 不过假日时人挤人的, 也够你走上好一阵. 走累了, 不妨进一家甜品店, 喝上一碗绿豆沙, 驱一驱暑气. 在庙街的尽头, 有数家大排档, 可以坐下来吃海鲜, 也可以尝尝印度风味, 或者干脆站在路边, 嚼上几串牛丸, 鱼蛋什么的. This rowdy thoroughfare in central Hong Kong Kowloon starts at Temple Street's junction with Jordan Road and looks like every B-movie director's dream of Hong Kong's Chinatown. Under the glare of bare light bulbs, hawkers flog everything from bizarre patent medicines to counterfeit watches. Prostitutes work the low-rise tenements, fortune-tellers cluster by the multistory car park and impoverished Chinese opera troupes busk for a few dollars just outside the public toilets. Outdoor food stalls display still-twitching, unnameable crustacea and old men and junkies gamble on games of Chinese chess in the concrete square outside the eponymous temple. Ghetto heaven!
庙街的知名度一半是被香港电影炒热的, 都是以此地为背景. 之前提到说在周星驰的电影 "食神" 里, 庙街就是拍摄地, 同时也是里面所讲故事的发生地. 我认为香港的文化是属于庙街文化, 庙街曾经是香港最底层的人生活的地方, 那里有最便宜的商品, 有人卖艺, 卖唱, 表演, 港片就是深植于并反映这样文化. 我想, 这也是庙街的魅力所在. 与其说庙街是个购物之地, 倒不如说这是你回忆少年心事的地方. 它无数次的出现在香港电影里, 你隔着时空透过小城录像厅的屏幕睁大眼睛与它曾经共同呼吸. 此刻你就站在B级片导演最爱的香港场景里, 我知道, 你在等待一场如 "庙街十二少" 一般的古惑仔 (刘德华饰演) 追杀上演. 或者, 找个相士, 如 "胭脂扣" 里梅艳芳 a.k.a 梅姑饰演的如花, 询问你等待的夫君"....或者, 在人流里寻找 "新不了情" 里的庙街街头艺人的女儿阿敏 (袁咏仪饰演).... 许多没到过香港的朋友, 早已知道香港有条庙街. 一些年轻朋友到了香港, 总会随口问起: 庙街在哪儿? 自上个世纪80年代港产片风靡大江南北时, 庙街的名字就逐渐为影迷所熟悉, 颇有些名声在外的味道, 甚至不少老外也慕名而至. Hong Kong 香港 - Part 6 - To be continued....
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