There probably isn’t a city dweller passing by the Central district in Hong Kong who doesn’t notice the looming colonial buildings smack dab in the middle of Hollywood Road, replete with huge arched windows, ionic columns, and handsome granite and brick façades. This is Tai Kwun (meaning ‘Big Station’), Hong Kong’s centre for heritage and arts, a non-profit cultural revitalisation project that likely remains the city’s largest yet. Hong Kong is home to many of the world’s leading commercial galleries but has always lacked a museum-standard not-for-profit art space. Tai Kwun Contemporary fills that gap. Tai Kwun is located on Hollywood Road at the Central district. There are three monuments in the building complex: the old Central Police Station, the former Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison. The Central Police Station was built in 1864 and is an original three-storey classical building. The original site is adjacent to the former Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison, which also have a long history, and developed into a historical and cultural tourist area. Tai Kwun is now a heritage and art museum dedicated to bringing a rich and exciting heritage and artistic experience to Hong Kong. 位于黄金地段中环的大馆,称是“江湖中人”的景点。我相信有很多人和我一样在去大馆之前都不知道香港中环还有这样的地方。虽然我们把它叫做“大馆”,但他的真实身份是香港中区警署建筑群体,一个有170多年历史的建筑群,由前中区警署、中央裁判司署及域多利监狱組成,曾是英国殖民统治的法治中心,经过活化工程后定名为“大馆”,是香港至今最大的文物保育项目。如今已化身成餐厅、商店和画廊,并会不时举办文化和娱乐活动,华丽变身为香港文创新地标。大馆与周围的商业大厦形成鲜明对照,在人口稠密的城市之中营造出稀有的庭院,公众也可在此欣赏风景、享受宁静、缅怀古迹。“大馆”是昔日警务人员和公众对前警察总部的俗称,选用此名是为了突显其历史意义。 Aside from a bevvy of heritage experiences, thematic art exhibitions, and immersive public programmes, this gorgeous compound is also home to some fantastic bars and restaurants. 在这里,大家可以一览殖民地时期香港警察的办公场景、历史故事,还有大家在电影里很熟悉的旧时警察制度。 大楼的内部做了高度的还原,保留了从前的样子,配有图文介绍。 As part of the preservation efforts, some cells that were part of the old Victoria Prison have been retained and open for the public to visit. Head over to D Hall to find a number of old prison cells with their original numbers and locks intact. They have now been converted into heritage storytelling spaces that pay tribute to its former life, and are a fascinating look into Hong Kong penal system that used to be inaccessible to the public. It may not sound like a huge deal, but Tai Kwun provides a rare courtyard area that is open for public use. Considering that our city is so dense, it’s incredible to have a dedicated space right in the heart of it all that is deliberately kept empty and wide open. Smack in the middle of Central district, PMQ is one of the only places in Hong Kong that is fully dedicated to indie design. With more than a century of history, this building used to be the colonial-era Police Married Quarters (hence the name), so you can expect cool architecture alongside a groundswell of creativity. It is not a single boutique, but rather a complex of dozens of buzzing workshops, studios, and ateliers from the coolest labels in town. 很巧的是,附近知名文青景点的元创方(PMQ)从前是香港已婚警察的宿舍,曾住有几百个警察家庭,仍然保留了宿舍的原有布局,展示了当年香港常见的现代主义和简朴实用的建筑特色。大馆和元创方对于港片迷来说,从小看到大的香港警匪片里,经典却也时有令人望而生畏的场景,如今有了这样的转型,可以感受到历史与艺术的美妙融合。 目前PMQ元创方这块土地每个时期都有不同面貌,从1862年作为中央书院(皇仁书院),是香港第一所官办中小学,据说孙中山先生也在此就读。1948年之后改建成香港警察眷属宿舍,至今时过境迁成了中环热门的文创景点。 If you have all the time in the world, wander through the industrial hallways, chat with designers in their studios, or join an ad hoc leather, jewelry or baking workshop. There are dozens of tiny studios and workshops to discover. You’ll likely meet many of the designers personally, which can create a lasting bond with the brand, or even watch artisans craft silver jewelry, eyeglasses, and leather shoes. And if you’re lucky enough to time your visit with one of the regular pop-ups, markets, and art events, you’ll really see what this creative community is all about. 走到PMQ元创方楼上的商店区,一间间栉次鳞比的创意小店,不管是手工作品、服饰包包、鞋子配件、手机壳吊饰、生活杂货⋯等非常多元。且都不是在百货公司可以看到的款式,很适合喜欢个性商品的朋友。 每个商店在布置上也都各有创意,也展现了香港是世界前三大都会区的充沛活力。另外有趣的是,早期警察宿舍编号也被保留下来,直接当作商店的门牌,PMQ元创方到处是一种新与旧、古老与现代融合的味道。
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