There is nothing I like more than being able to "kill two birds with one stone", or in this case, seeing two cities in one trip. When I went to visit Copenhagen, Denmark in February 2022, I decided to take the train from Copenhagen Central Station to Malmö (blog post here) and Lund which turned out to be my best time in Sweden. Lund is very close to Copenhagen as well as Malmö, so you can easily reach Lund for a nice day trip around the town. There are multiple departures every hour and the train journey takes only 45 minutes. Lund is one of Sweden’s oldest cities and many of the buildings in Lund are historicist creations of the late 19th and early 20th centuries thrives alongside modern buildings. It is said that you can spend your whole life here without seeing all the quiet little corners, all the beautiful buildings and details. Interestingly enough, founding dates all the way back to Year 990 when Lund was then a part of Denmark (there have been so many wars fought between these Scandinavian neighbors that at one point Denmark ruled everything, and then Sweden did, and then repeat). 许多北欧的城市其实不算大,老城区便是北欧国家的旅游热门打卡地,瑞典也一样。瑞典有很多老城区,是旅客喜欢游览的地方,隆德(Lund)便是其中一个。历史悠长的隆德是瑞典最古老的城市之一,建于公元990年前后,当时还是丹麦管辖,但后来瑞典战胜丹麦,它就成了瑞典的一部分。 我从丹麦哥本哈根Copehagen坐火车到达隆德,整个车程才45分钟,非常方便。隆德具有很多古老的建筑,大部分建造于12和13世纪之间。相比瑞典的其他城市,隆德建筑保存得非常完好,甚至颁布了一个本地的法律来限制考古研究,这使得这些历史遗留的古建筑成为这座城市的瑰宝,璀璨的遗产。在旅途中,我很喜欢探索古老建筑,然后尽量地了解那个国家的历史,甚至还会幻想自已在这里生活,或如果穿梭在这样的老建筑之中,那会是怎么样的画面等等。 The convenient thing about Lund is that it is small and compact. I took a stroll around the city and found it very walkable and it had a nice friendly vibe overall. There are plenty of things to do without you having to walk miles. As soon as you get off at the train station, you may start to notice all the cyclist about, quite a common sight for a university city. Another thing you may notice, that I loved, was the abundant cobblestoned streets. It gives the city a very charming feel. 行走在古老的卵石街道上,发现隆德楼房普遍不高,几乎都是四五层,因为人口没有那么多。各个楼房的有尖尖的房顶和艳丽的颜色,很有年代感。 The Lund Cathedral which is one of the oldest stone buildings in all of Sweden, is a landmark on Lund’s skyline. It is distinctively dark, with only small windows to allow sunshine in. It is also a quintessential example of Romanesque architecture in all of the Nordics. It also has a crypt which has been refurbished from time to time and is free to tour. 隆德大教堂建于1103年,是隆德最有名的古迹和地标之一,如同镶嵌在古城中的一颗宝石。教堂兼具罗马式和哥特式两种风格,在楼层设计、地下室、拱形走廊、半圆形后殿等方面,显然地体现出罗马式建造风格。而在教堂里有一个唱诗班舞台,一个圣坛点缀品,加上教堂正面外观,这些都是典范的哥特式风格。 教堂有一个尖顶塔楼,是隆德的标志,在很远的地方都可以清楚地看到,目前塔楼不对外展开。教堂内部装潢华贵,但是光线较暗,可以透过阳光的窗口都比较小。 There is a very special astronomical clock that dates from around 1425. It displays signs of the zodiac and the phases of the moon, and chimes twice a day while the three wise men and their servants pass and bow before the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus. 教堂里还有一个独特的天文钟,于1424年左右建成,看起来让人觉得很神秘。钟的上部是天文学钟,表达不同阶段太阳月亮落下的位置,下部是日历板,可以运算传统节日日期。天文钟里还有一个管风琴,普通每天演奏两次乐曲。 Lund is a city in which the university has an enormous presence, a true student city. Of a municipal population of around 110,000 no fewer than 40,000 are students. The university was founded in 1666 and is one of the foremost seats of learning and scientific research centres in Scandinavia. 隆德有个现代文明气氛非常深厚的学城,著名的隆德大学就坐落于此地。隆德大学是瑞典第二古老的大学,也是欧洲最古老的大学之一。大学主楼,目前的哲学院大楼,建于1584年,是北欧历史最悠久的建筑之一。大学的图书馆也是瑞典最古老、规模最大的图书馆之一,设有2600个阅览室书桌。 The University library opened in 1666 at the same time as the university. Whilst being an imposing brick building on the outside it had a range comfortable nooks and crannies inside, ideal for the budding academic. St. Peter's Priory is a very old church and was one of Denmark's early monastic houses. The original church was built in 1160s and of sandstone with the rounded arches. It is truly beautiful too. The Skissernas Museum was a real treat that caught me unaware. In English the museum is described as “The Museum of Artistic Process and Public Art”. This description differentiates it from other art galleries and museums because unlike the usual art museum, they don’t always have a finished product but rather have set out to show how art is created. The building itself stood on its own looking over a park and was very a modern structure compared to most of the buildings we had seen in Lund and was in distinct contrast to the University which it was once part of. The entrance into the museum was a normal size door and not the grand entrance at all-however once inside the exhibition hall was huge and struck one immediately as there was a huge 30 feet high statue at one end of the hall , with the walls and ceiling covered in bright works of art with the floor dominated by sculptural works. A real sensory shock and a fabulous start to a pleasant stroll through the cavernous exhibition rooms. It was founded in 1934 by Ragnar Josephson (1891-1966), during his time as a professor of art history at the University of Lund. His intention was to create an archive of the creative process, the artist’s path from first concept to finished works – that is what the Josephson meant by “artwork’s birth”. The idea was to collect sketches, models and photographs of public art, when it suited particularly well as study because it often requires many studies. The interesting thing is that even famous artists either gifted their conceptual work cheaply because it was the finished art piece that attracted the main income. 隆德大学府里有一座迷人极简主义建筑的素描博物馆,于1934年成立。博物馆专注于艺术作品的初步草图,展示了从汤到坚果的形象渲染的历史和实践。它拥有世界上最大的瑞典和国际公共艺术素描模型的收藏品,深受艺术爱好者的喜爱和欢迎。博物馆虽然不大,但却可以让人们感受到艺术家的思考和创作过程,使他们更加直观地了解艺术品产生和发展的经历。 This cultural-historical open-air museum Kulturen has around 40 historic houses – some in their original position while others were relocated from various parts of Sweden. They are furnished as would have been typical and thus show how people of various social and economic classes would have lived from the Middle Ages to around 1930. 靠近隆德大教堂有一座露天文化博物馆,建于1892年,是世界上最古老的露天博物馆之一。我花了几个小时探索这里,因为整个博物馆的户外部分把参观者仿佛带到30 年代的乡村生活,充分反映了瑞典的生活文化。参观者们可穿过后院的隧道,进入一个由几座历史悠久、保存完好的建筑组成的世界,内部装饰精美。这里的藏品包括约25万件具有文化和历史价值的文物,超过50万张照片和100万件考古发现,展示了隆德及其周边地区是如何随着时间而演变的,而且还可以感觉到过去历史时光栩栩如生地呈现在你的面前。 附近还有一家小型古老的杂货店,欣赏博物馆的展览之后,可以进去杂货店逛逛。它是半木造的建筑,在隆德经营200年了。 The Hokeret store is a small 200-year-old architectural masterpiece on the outside, which attracts visitors for its beauty and long history. When you visit this store, you can buy many old-fashioned goods and gifts related to the past, dolls, small souvenirs, simple pendants, as well as sweets and delicious jams. When you visit this place, you will notice on the shelves many old wrapped packages, dating back tens of years. The Lund Botanical Garden is a historical landmark that had been conceived in 1690. It functions as a garden and greenhouse with over 7,000 plant species. The gardens serve the university within the areas of study such as ecology and botany. Free admission for the public to enjoy at their leisure. 瑞典人天性喜爱自然,这座建于17世纪的植物园也成为最受欢迎的户外公共空间之一。这里种植着7000种各类植物,其中200种种植在温室内,代表了九个不同气候带的植物,从而使得人们在一个植物园内可以看到不同地区丰富多彩的植物。植物园是免费对公众开放,每年都会在不同的植物区进行重新规划,所以当季节来临的时候,就有不同主题的区域和华丽的鲜花,让入园的人可以感受到百花齐放的美好。想不到在这里的种类如此丰富,在阳光下如此恣意生长,它们静静地营造出一方梦幻的田园,让我在瑞典大自然的环境里享受美好的一天。 What makes Lund so appealing has to be its abundance of parks and green spaces. This is probably one of the reasons why this greenery is most conducive to student life and the overall appreciation the Swedes have for the outdoors. As seen all of the above, you can find a blend of old and new, tradition and innovation. I found that even though Lund was smaller, it was a place I found endearing, a place I would like to return to. I obviously feel the same about Malmo, so I am mixed on which Swedish city I like more. As for advice for you, it’s best to see both!
我来瑞典之前,印象就是古朴、安静的美丽北欧国家,可是当游玩瑞典之后,发现瑞典是一个充满活力、风光旖旎的旅游国家。除了隆德,马尔默也是很值得一去的。它们这样的魅力城市,到处看似无边无际的自然美景,可以感受人文气息,亦能漫步迷人老街,我摆弄相机拍下这两座城的点滴,留下毕生难忘的美好回忆!
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