Liu Ma Kee, Hong Kong Homegrown Brand: Fermented Preserved Soybean Curd (Tofu) 香港历史悠久, 老字号豆制的品牌 ~ 廖孖记腐乳

Fermented Tofu is a kind of food as well as an ingredient. This kind of food is reputed as the Chinese cheese in the world. Fermented bean curd also called sufu, fermented tofu, tofu cheese, or preserved tofu is a form of processed, preserved tofu used in East Asian cuisine as a condiment made from soybeans. Some people call it “chinese cheese”, because of its pungent aroma, saltiness, and smooth creamy texture. The ingredients typically are soybeans, salt, rice wine and sesame oil or vinegar, and are sold in jars soaked in brine with select flavourings.

香港有一个历史最悠久的豆制品牌 ~ 廖孖记腐乳. 香港地产霸权加上楼价租金飙升, 家族小舖执笠的执笠, 取而代之的是集团式连锁店, 我现在也很难再找到真正自家制造和销售腐乳的小舖. 因此, 位于在佐敦的廖孖记, 它的存在, 变得很珍贵. 香港至今留有的酱园和豆品厂自制腐乳, 被称之为 “王” 的古法秘制腐乳, 正是百年老店 “廖孖记”. 店有姓廖的两双生兄弟创立, 所以叫 “廖孖”, 其腐乳味道极其强烈极其浓缩, 香足三条街. 如果非要从腐乳里面选一款高级品, 廖孖记可说是实至名归. 1905年在香港始创, 坚持在家庭老铺用古法手制. 一瓶腐乳密封发酵至少半年才供出售, 以保证香味和够绵软. 送粥, 炒菜, 蒸鸡无一不是惊艳味道.

廖孖记腐乳, 在食欲不振口淡淡的日子, 只要有壹砖砂糖腐乳佐饭, 胃口便能复苏. 众多牌子中, 首选过百年历史, 曾经三代的廖孖记. 全港第壹批出口到新加坡的腐乳, 正是廖孖记的出品, 现时经常有遊客来入货. 腐乳于上世纪五六十年代, 是穷等人家恩物, 听老前辈口中得知, 以前几仙壹砖腐乳够几家人当菜吃. 虽然现今经济环境比起几十年前已经提升了不少, 但腐乳至今依然广受欢迎, 如果现在想吃腐乳的话, 必定会想起百多年历史的廖孖记.

不要看轻廖孖记那樽小小的腐乳, 一小块已经是时间的见证, 而且, 当中包含着几多的执着. 执着的地方, 是他们坚持用古法生产腐乳, 例如用传统石磨来磨黄豆而不是用搅拌器, 用生铁锅来煮豆浆, 又禁用味精和防腐剂. 他们又坚持将豆腐放在室温之下自然发酵, 而不用人造霉菌发酵, 放入大樽浸醃盐酒长达半年, 再分入细樽, 这才成为一樽樽卖给食客的产品.

廖孖记不想自己的腐乳久放, 是因为制作过程中, 并无添加任何味精和防腐剂. 工场内, 师傅会先用加拿大黄豆做成壹板板豆腐, 再切割成腐乳般大小的壹粒粒白豆腐, 之后便浸进盐酒内, 任由它们密封发酵至少半年, 才成为可供出售的腐乳. 若发酵时间不够便匆匆出售, 只会香味不足兼不够绵软.

今时今日, 'Made in China' 的食材早已大举攻陷香港, 真正 'Made in Hong Kong' 的本土製品, 买少见少.

廖孖记所在的廖孖记大厦是家族拥有的, 大厦一边还有一处是用鲜红的纸皮石砌出 "廖孖记" 几个大字, 没有随着岁月而褪色. 

Off-white, with a greyish, yellow tinge, Liu Ma Kee doesn't have the most appetising appearance, and the leaky packaging needs upgrading. The aromas of fermentation are sharp, like blue cheese. Fans of Liu Ma Kee (and there are many in Hong Kong, as it's a home-grown brand) often eat it doused with white sugar and it's not hard to see why: it is very salty and the wine that it sits in adds a pungent kick. It's soft and creamy, making it easy to toss through vegetables or rice.

昔日腐乳捞饭是穷人的家常便饭. 腐乳一直难登大雅之堂, 但有时越是基本的东西, 越能流传下来. 好像过百年历史的廖孖记, 一间小小的腐乳店, 凭着几代人的努力屹立至今, 将这被视为下栏的食物发扬光大, 变成人人食过番寻味的经典食品. 虽然不像大牌子可到超市顺手拈来, 但吃的是更高的质素和更浓的人情味.