Nostalgic Sweet Treats From Hong Kong's 60-Year Old Hung Fat Chinese Cake 香港深水埗旧区基隆街史悠久的中式糕饼铺 ~ 鸿发糕品
A cake or pie pit-stop is part of most Hong Kongers’ daily routine, so you don’t have to go far to find a bakery in any neighbourhood – the majority are take away, with customers buying bags of treats for home, work, or if you’re like me, to scoff on the hoof. Whenever i am in Hong Kong, i will always make a re-visit to Sham Shui Po, one of city’s oldest neighbourhoods and would recommend a visit here for some of the finest Hong Kong-style bakeries. These traditional no-frills joints serve up trays of buttery tarts, sticky glazed buns and airy sponges to an enthusiastic audience, from early morning until evening time, for just a few dollars. There are plenty of posh cake shops in other Hong Kong districts – multi-coloured French-style macaroons, towering gateaux and expensive high-end biscuits are on display behind glass counters like works of art. But for no-nonsense hustle, simple flavours and great value, the old-school bakeries are a winner.
Hung Fat Chinese Cake has been operating on Ki Lung Street in Shum Shui Po district in Hong Kong for more than 60 years. The cake master start preparing at 4am every morning to make fresh breakfast for the neighborhood. The 60-year-old shop has certainly witnessed the changes and development of the Sham Shui Po community. The residential area transformed into street shops on both sides and housed a variety of small businesses. The area later evolved into a cloth and clothing accessories distribution center in the 1980s and 1990s. The little Cake Shop, Hung Fat, has never changed since 1955, producing traditional cake dim sums for the neighborhood every day.
香港人久不久就会爱上怀旧, 由时装到音乐, 最令人难以忘怀的莫过于怀旧小食, 其实每个人心中都 梗有一样至爱小食, 时时刻刻都会想再回味, 因为除了怀念其味道, 最重要係回味旧日的故事. 去香港纯粹是很想穿梭在狭小的街道中, 抬头就能望见纵横交错的招牌, 在风景宜人的离岛消磨时光, 在快节奏中过过慢生活.
在香港这个多元文化共存的地方, 不但有贵价的西餐, 还有很多平价的传统美食, 很多传统的东西甚至在国内也是很难找到或者已经绝迹了. 这次讲的是位于深水埗旧区中的一家历史悠久的中式糕饼铺, 在 1955 年就已经开业的鸿发糕品, 相信和不少同学的父母年纪差不多了.
鸿发糕品位于深水埗旧区的基隆街, 离开鸭寮街不远, 但位置相对附近的电脑, 电器市场来讲比较僻静. 从开业至今一直在原址经营, 也是经历了深水埗的沧桑变化. 站在铺外, 看看它的门面, 招牌, 充满岁月痕迹的器具以及老当益壮的老板, 已经可以品味出它包含的历史沉淀. 来到鸿发就像时光倒流, 店内有松糕, 鸡屎藤果, 红包仔, 白糖糕, 煎堆, 大发糕, 芝麻糕等.
The shop is filled with different styles of dim sum cakes including Put Chai Pudding, sugar cake, taro cake, thousand layers cake and Chinese Fever Vine cake etc. Hung Fat is usually very busy during the annual Lunar New Year, the Hungry Ghost Festival as well as during wedding days. Apart from cakes and puddings, Hung Fat also offers congee in the morning.
鸿发除了糕品外, 仲有粥品油器, 选择不少, 当中仲有好多喺几近绝迹的糕点, 每件售价都是两, 叁蚊, 非常经济, 但我独爱它的砵仔糕.
鸿发糕点的店面放满了不同款式的糕点, 有用真正瓦製钵仔盛载的钵仔糕, 有驰名的松糕还有白糖糕, 芋头糕, 千层糕, 鸡屎藤等, 种类繁多, 目不暇给. 每年的农曆新年或盂兰节都是鸿发最好生意的时候或平日如婚礼喜庆日子, 对鸿发的传统糕点需求特别大. 除糕点外, 鸿发早上也有粥品.
铺面平平无奇, 但摆出来的很多糕饼类都很吸引. 松糕是放红糖的, 因此颜色较深, 是淡褐色的, 用圆形大糕盘整出来, 然后老伯伯用菜刀按顾客需要切成菱形的一块一块断重出售, 松糕发得很好, 切开见到一个一个的气泡很均匀, 切的时候就知道很有弹性, 要在嘴里既弹又软, 有红糖的香味.
这里的鸡屎藤粿也很特别, 一个一个做成如鹌鹑蛋大小排在一起整一饼的蒸出来, 是加了糖没有馅料的糯米粉球和其他地方的不太一样. 鸡屎藤清热解毒, 有益健康. 白糖糕味道也很好, 松软而且味道不会带酸, 因为白糖糕是用米粉做成, 米粉的发酵与面粉不同, 难度较高, 一旦控制不好很容易发酵变酸或者不够松软. 其他的各种糕饼都很不错, 很传统.
The shop's interior has hardly changed since those days. The white tiles on the floor are cracking and old crates and equipment are piled in corners. At the entrance sits a giant steamed brown sugar cake. Made with brown sugar slabs and rice flour, it is a moist, elastic and subtly sweet cake. Also on display are other sticky, steamed sweets, which to the untrained eye may look more at home in a haunted house.
位于深水埗基隆街的鸿发, 一室古旧装潢, 地板铺著传统纸皮石, 天花掛着白色吊扇, 老板黄伯六十多年来风雨不改, 每天都坐在大门口坐镇.
地板鋪着传統紙皮石, 天花掛著白色吊扇. 店舖虽残旧, 但更有风味, 价钱亦是街坊价, 难怪多年屹立不倒.
90-year old owner, Mr Wong was originated from the four-county. He was introduced by friends with the same origin and moved to Sham Shui Po in Hong Kong where most of the four-county population settled. Mr Wong started his business on selling traditional cake dim sums. He inherited this business when he was in his 20s and has been running it till now.
Every day, Mr Wong sits at the booth of his 60-year-old cake shop, waiting to greet his regulars. Most of the time, they are silver-haired ladies or men who were his friends long before they started having to use an umbrella, cane or shopping trolley to help them walk.
Sometimes these old friends bring along their grandchildren and he serves them a slice of steamed brown sugar cake, or glutinous rice flour pudding with red beans, steamed in a small cup, like he used to when he started the shop in 1955.
店东黄伯是四邑人, 今年已90多岁, 上世纪五十年代在乡里介绍下跟家人到了四邑人聚居的深水埗开始的糕店生意, 售卖祖传的传统糕品, 黄伯在二十多岁是接手生意便做到现时. 下午没客人, 糕点师傅下班, 店里就只剩下店东黄伯坐在店外, 亲自招呼客人, 跟街坊闲话家常.
砵仔糕, 顾名思义就是用一个砵仔蒸嘅糕, 主要材料系粘米粉和黄糖, 所以系啡色, 至于白色砵仔糕, 则用砂糖代替黄糖, 所以白色, 蒸熟后, 仍然盛载係砵仔内, 等到有客人买才用两支竹籤戳起来给客人.
但如今, 大多数舖头都改用白色瓷碗 (即茶楼用的白色碗仔) 代替砵仔, 有些更是从工场购入大量生产的, 要寻找真正的砵仔糕, 就只好去鸿发.
Glutinous rice flour pudding with red bean. Each for HKD 1.50 only = S$0.25 (based on currency exchange rate of 6.1)!
Although Mr Wong no longer makes the cakes due to old age, he still continues to supervise and hopes that the recipes of his childhood won't be lost. From custard tarts to coconut cakes and chicken pies, Hong Kong’s traditional bakeries bring sweet carbohydrate heaven to the city.
位于深水埗旧区中的旧式唐饼铺的鸿发糕品是为数不多的自家制作的糕点小店. 这样的店铺虽然产量不多, 但是重在自制, 也吸引了不少食客和爱好传统的邻居, 算是十分难得的自制小店. 所有产品都在店内自家制造, 有兴趣还可以看看他们的制作过程. 这样的经营方式也是人对产品放心. 难得的自家制造小店, 希望能够一直经营下去. 黄老伯很友好, 有不清楚的可以尽情请教. 旧区的店除了传统的口味, 往往多了点人情味.