Streetcars used to be very common in Tokyo. However, due to the progress of technology and the progressive migration of trains from above to under the ground, they have almost disappeared. Only two streetcar lines are currently left: the Tokyu Setagaya Line and the Toden Arakawa Line. You may read my recent blog on the Setagaya Line here. There's something deeply nostalgic in seeing a vehicle with such a retro look still running the streets of Tokyo. 之前为大家介绍过的世田谷线外,另外就是这条东急电铁的都电荒川线。到东京不一定只能玩市区,而已经来东京不少次的游客,若希望挖掘一些郊区或隐藏景点,可利用都电荒川线来趟郊区一日游,买一张都电荒川线一日券,随兴的上车下车,体验一些意料之外的乐趣,也是不错的选择。都电荒川线在东京复杂的铁路系统中,是仅存行驶于路面的电车之一,光凭这个原因绝对值得搭乘,若喜欢郊区一点的步调与景色,更是不能错过,在电车叮叮叮的声音中,我开始展开一天的行程。 那天坐上百年历史充满复古怀旧的都电荒川线路面电车 (Tokyo Sakura Tram),就像把时钟拨慢我不赶行程更没有紧凑的步代,走走停停来来回回全靠当下的一念之间。荒川线就像一本历史故事,也像一铁道电车百科全书,喜欢老时代氛围的会爱上它的内涵,是铁道迷的更会来此捕足它深度的风采。 The Tokyo Sakura Tram has 30 stops and transports approximately 50,000 passengers a day. It is an indispensable train route for many people who live along the line. Apart from the tram line, the Shitamachi area along the route still possesses a distinctive nostalgic and traditional atmosphere, which is a sharp contrast against the cutting-edge, trendy city centers of Shibuya or Ginza. 都电荒川线全线共30个站,“三ノ轮桥”站默默的当选在我心中荒川线的代表车站。我从这穿越时空回到最真的时光里。这里处处充满日式旧时代古朴的氛围,第一眼就印象深刻。三ノ轮桥是荒川线的起站也是终点。很容易就在这个车站留恋,除了猜猜看待会回来车路的列车是什么颜色,看着轨道旁一整排的玫瑰花,也成为另一个赏心悦目的画面。 Trams that travel on roads together with cars are well-known by many in Japan, and have the nickname Chin-chin Densha (ding ding trains). There are several variations of how this nickname came to be, but one theory says that the name was taken from the ringing sound of the bell that conductors used for signaling to the tram operator. In this way, we can see how these trams were a familiar scene in daily life, with close ties to citizens. 早稻田大学身为日本名列前茅的大学之一,其校园环境究竟是如何?颇令人好奇。都电荒川线上,刚好有其中一个早稻田校区,正是整条都电的首站,沿途周边满多餐厅与店家,却意外地安静,或许还未到中餐时间,学生人潮不多,不过越靠近校门附近,就出现满多骑脚踏车与排队等公车的学生,瞬间仿佛看到日剧中青春校园的 场景,在心中默默激动了一下。 The tram takes you through idyllic alleys and along residential quarters, showing you an entirely different side of Tokyo. The landscape, traditional local buildings, and the cacophony of everyday life in Tokyo make a ride on the Sakura Tram so memorable. 那天坐上百年历史充满复古怀旧的都电荒川线路面电车,就像把时钟拨慢我不赶行程更没有紧凑的步代,走走停停来来回回全靠当下的一念之间。荒川线就像一本历史故事,也像一铁道电车百科全书,喜欢老时代氛围的会爱上它的内涵,是铁道迷的更会来此捕足它深度的风采。 都电荒川线的路面电车,造型复古、颜色多样,可以拍到4、5种造型,竟成为了像我一样热爱摄影的旅人的景点。 Tokyo Sakura Tram. Not just travelling on the Arakawa Line but actually getting off and exploring a bit really means exploring Tokyo off the beaten path and seeing places that can’t be found in guidebooks. 都电荒川线电车复古外型十分吸引。 The scenery along the tram route and the tram itself offer the perfect opportunity to catch a glimpse of traditional Japanese culture and lifestyle. 都电荒川线的车站小巧迷你。 I encourage travellers who wish to experience vintage Japan to drop by at the Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street. A short walk from the Koshinzuka stop, this street is full of restaurants and apparel shops catering to the non-stop flow of senior citizens that come to shop or visit shrines. The street is also called “Granny’s Harajuku,” as the sight of seniors congregating here bears a resemblance to Harajuku, famous as the area where the younger generation are keen to flock to. 有“老人的原宿”之称的巢鸭,在东京相对来说非热门景点,其中著名的“巢鸭地藏通商店街”,如同巢鸭的称号,一进入商店街,放眼过去多是有些年纪的居民,商店 街大部分的店是贩卖蔬菜、醃制品等,有时会有路边摊,贩卖一些小点心或手作商品,步调较慢。走趟巢鸭地藏通商店街更能贴近了解日本居民的生活,整条商店街弥漫一股传统古早味的氛围,是巢鸭的一大特点。 沿途都有都电荒川线的指标,所以不怕找不到。沿线各站都是无人车站,所以车票需跟列车员购票。 三之轮桥站旁有间“KOHIKAN”咖啡馆,有着三之轮的名物“都电松饼”,可爱的电车造型吸睛之余,分量也很足够。店中也有许多荒川线电车周边商品,坐在窗边还能欣赏电车通过的景象。 Japan is certainly a fascinating place.
Travelling around Tokyo’s north with the Toden Arakawa Line might have you wonder about the history of the little tram, one of the city’s only two remaining tram lines. I loved my ride on the Sakura Tram and will do it again next time I visit Tokyo. 世田谷线和荒川线之间,除了路线长度和车站数量的差别,其实还有一些不同之处;前者几乎都是行驶在专用的轨道路线上,且穿梭在两旁房屋绵延不绝的住宅区里头。无论两者是异、是同,它们都见证了东京这座城市的进步与发展,也都好不容易熬过了时代的风霜和凋零,甚至是面临差点被废线停驶的命运。经历过这段漫长的历史以后才终于改头换面,变成了东京这座城市无可取代的历史瑰宝。世界再大,总会发现几个外表或个性都极为相近的人。城市的范围再广、由都心放射出去的铁道再多,也总会有几条看似相似的路线和电车存在着。荒川线是如此,世田谷线也是如此,踏上这趟路面电车旅程之后,我做出了这样的结论出来。
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