Here goes the Part 2 of my recent trip to Taiwan: A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan - Wulai Old Street 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - 乌來老街.
About 300 years ago, the Atayal ancestors hunted in this area and saw a lot of smoke from natural hot water. Therefore, they called it "Wulai" which means hot springs in their language. It was just their hunting territory; however, because lumber, producing camphor oil, and construction of the hydraulic power plant offered great job opportunities during the Japanese government occupying Taiwan, people gradually moved to Wulai area and formed the village. Now it is a popular spot for soaking in the hot springs after a day hike in this area or on a cold and chilly winter day in Taipei. Furthermore, it has other attractions which catch people's attention.
This place is also known as 乌來老街.
I like visiting old streets of Taiwan past. That brings me back in time to the earlier days of Taiwanese living. If you like a deep cultural experience in Taiwan, welcome to visit Wulai Old Street!
虽然每一条老街都有一些很雷同的元素, 但是台湾本来就不大, 文化的差异当然也不会因为几小时候的路程而天差地别, 但若每条老街有一部分不一样的地方, 都值得旅人去探索, 而一般听到老街, 都原以为是古代建筑.
每天被淹在忙碌的酱缸中, 该如何调和苦涩的滋味? 旅游不只是放松心情而已, 还能够帮单调的日子, 增加生活的乐趣与经验. 欢迎各位到底 "乌来老街", 何须多做介绍：泰雅族, 老街, 台车, 温泉, 等多元素把乌来装扮的多彩多姿, 而且这些元素是自然聚集的, 让空气中散布着一种令人感动的篥子. 您是否也原意展开胸怀深深地吸一口气, 保证是耳目一新.
相传在两三百年前, 泰雅族的勇士来到乌来打猎, 当他们发现河边, 竟然冒着阵阵白烟, 并且不断地涌出热水来, 便高呼 (乌来) - 泰雅语中的 "冒烟的热水" 这一声惊呼, 成了乌来名字来由, 也开启了乌来的温泉故事. 泰雅族是乌来地区的主要住民, 在乌来老街可见店家招牌的制作也采用统一风格, 呈现一致的风貌. 每一店家都充满了浓浓的原住民风情, 不论是美食或是手工艺品, 都相当具有特色, 使整条老街也别具一番风味. 每到泡汤及赏樱的旺季, 整条街人声杂沓, 弥漫着温泉玉米, 山猪肉, 香肠, 温泉蛋等美食的香气.
Wulai is an area in the hills around 1 hour bus ride from Taipei city. It is home to the indigenous Atayal Tribe and is also a popular spa retreat for the locals due to the presence of natural hot springs.
Wulai Old Street begins at the Wulai Atayal Museum on one end and finishes at Lansheng Bridge on the other end. The entire stretch of street between these two places of attractions are dominated with eateries, restaurants, street vendors and different kinds of traditional Taiwanese handicrafts.
Wulai is also famous for its Old Street which is today probably a bigger attraction then the hot springs. Like most of the other old streets in Taipei, the focus is on food. It is basically one narrow street with shops on both sides selling local delicacies, products and souvenirs.
乌来是个原住民特色相当强的地方, 有着浓浓的泰雅族部落风情, 通往乌来老街的小桥上. 两旁都是鲜明的原住民色彩, 红色加上黑色也相当时尚呦.
走过乌来老街, 接着就会经过乌来的 ”览胜大桥“, 站在桥上可欣赏南势溪的翠绿.
On the way to Wulai Old Street, you drive through some beautiful mountain scenes.
乌来老街指的就是乌来街, 瀑布路与环山道路一带, 店家招牌式样统一, 看起相当整齐, 而且大部分的商店都以原住民特色来发挥, 所以游客可以品尝到原住民风味的山产美食.
Many restaurants and stalls can be found along Wulai Old Street. Each serves special aboriginal delicacies and snacks.
Coca Cola puppet in aboriginal garb on the tourist strip.
早在2005年就成立於此, 成立此博物馆的原因是在於当乌来被发展为观光地去后, 乌来主要的温泉观光产业多集中於投资者手中, 在乌来内可看到许多设计精致, 霓虹灯闪烁的豪华温泉饭店, 却也同时可以看到许多原住民部落简陋的铁皮屋. 整个乌来的观光产业发展, 存在着原住民与汉人间经济地位落差, 乡内贫富差距日益扩大的隐忧.
於是成立此博爱规划朝生活博物馆的营运方式, 内容除传统泰雅历史文化与生活器物资料展示外, 并包含整个乌来地区的自然生态与文化资源, 扩及社区居民的共同参与, 结合部落带动原住民文化观光发展, 期盼透过乌来泰雅民族博物馆的有效经营, 活化泰雅传统文化, 并重建民族自信心, 拓展民族视野, 再创乌来泰雅的新象.
Wulai Atayal Museum is where visitors can have an idea of the cultures and histories of Atayal. The museum displays all kinds of Atayal’s features include the handcrafted artifacts, fabric weaves, weapons of the Atayal, as well as introducing the history and culture of the Atayal.
参观完博物馆, 还看到部落的原住民们在山中的狩猎方式, 很新鲜, 也很有趣. 泰雅民族博物馆是红白菱型织纹层层排列环绕的建筑, 矗立在老街口. 馆的最上方放着一座巨型原住民雕塑, 彷佛从上往下俯视着街上川流不息的游客. 穿过玻璃门, 映入眼簾的是从三楼悬挂的亮丽又原始靛蓝色织布, 透着屋顶射入的天光，散发一股宁静之美，也昭示了泰雅族正是原住民中擅长织布的民族.
乌来过去就是泰雅族人的生活部落, 是乌来真正的主人, 所以外人也应该多多认识这个族群, 了解他们的历史和生活方式, 在新北市唯一的山地区 "乌来" 成立泰雅民族博物馆别具意义, 精心策划的展览中, 泰雅族人食, 衣, 住等生活面貌与文化哲学一览无遗, 所以泰雅民族博物馆里, 就是在介绍泰雅族人的历史和生活概况, 希望能够藉由博物馆的保存与陈列, 让乌来区原住民文化得以传承, 并让前来游玩的观光客更加了解与尊重当地原住民生活, 甚至喜爱上原住民文化. Ulay - 即是泰雅族语的 "温泉", "乌来", "温泉", 泰雅族" 三者间有着紧密的关连性.
A mural of aboriginal Atayal people in traditional clothing. Carved paintings of Atayal people along the road. Notice the tradition of blue facial tattoos!
览胜大桥的周边也展示了泰雅族的图腾, 泰雅族得图腾大致喜欢用蓝, 黄, 红, 黑, 白来组成, 而织物的纹样还是以菱纹及横条为基本元素, 加以组合变化, 让织布的人有依循的织路, 凡织布的女人都认为服饰中多彩的横线是通往祖先福地的彩虹桥, 多变的菱纹, 代表无数祖灵的眼睛.
At the end of the Wulai Old Street, there is a bridge which take you to the other part of the small town centre. Over there are some restaurants and cafes that overlook the river and also some day spas where you can relax and enjoy a soak in the hot spring water.
一说到乌来就想到温泉, 其实在泰雅语就是指冒着蒸气的涌泉, 不管是先来的泰雅人, 还是後到的汉人, 日本人, 都爱上可以养颜美容, 改善肠胃疾病的温泉, 老街上头就林立众多温泉旅社.
Wulai Hot Springs have a temperature about 80 degrees Celsius and are colorless and odorless. It is believed that the Wulai Hot Springs were found by the Atayal hunters about 300 years ago. Today, many hot spring hotels and resorts are built along the riverbanks and Wulai Old Street.
乌来台车原来是以运输林木为主, 如今已成为乌来的观光特色之一. 从揽胜水泥桥至瀑布间, 乘坐十人坐位之观光台车, 沿途穿越绿林幽径, 翠谷, 飞瀑迎面而来, 畅快惬意. 早期的乌来台车是山林中砍伐木材的运送车, 在民国 50 年时才改为观光载客的可爱台车. 搭乘台车至瀑布区, 沿路可以透过开放式的车窗门板饱览绿林风光. 若抵达瀑布风景区後, 天色尚早, 回程时还可以沿着台车道旁的情人步道漫步回乌来老街, 路面平缓, 景致优美, 走起来相当轻松而愉快!
The Wulai Log Cart is another interesting feature in the Wulai Hot Spring area. Visitors may take log cart at the Log Cart Station to the top of a nearby mountain. The ride takes about 10 minutes and natural views can be seen during the ride.
从野溪温泉看览胜大桥. 有这样天然的好地方, 台湾人真的要好好珍惜.
Taiwan is rich in scenic beauty and has several spectacular areas where people can take in the wonderfully varied scenery of the island.
远处黄红的太阳落下, 照着这翠绿的溪, 真是漂亮.
人来人往的老街, 故事特别多. 我得以穿越时空, 窥见过去的老街的样貌, 了解变千的历史, 进而更能走进老街的故事里, 感受新旧交错的趣味之处. 有些旧时代的美好, 我真的很庆幸还有幸体会.
乌来老街没有像其他老街一样很商业化, 很有乌来老街的风格. 乌来老街的特色就是那复古怀旧的街景, 依旧保留着纯的旧日生活风貌. 乌来环山面海, 拥有变化多端的山海美景, 让自己的心沉醉在美丽的山城 - 乌来.
乌来老街依旧人声鼎沸, 时间很快ㄧ分一秒的过去, 即将踏上归途的我, 下次, 再相见!
Wulai's quaint streets, teahouses, stunning views of the ocean plus a wide variety of novelty and souvenir shops transform it into a popular tourist magnet. Nestled in the hills in the northeast of Taiwan, this picturesque old town selling all kinds of traditional Taiwanese food, beverages and snacks lined both sides of the narrow street. It took me quite a while to complete this short winding lane as I was constantly distracted by the scenic sights and wonderful aroma of the food. Its picturesque winding streets and old stone houses have retained their charm and evoke the spirit of old Taiwan like no other place on the island. The surrounding landscape is made up of antique houses and there is a magnificent view down to the lake. The town's many tea shops and restaurants take advantage of the fine scenery and you can always find a great place to sit and relax and gaze at the view after a walk through the old street.
Part 3 - A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - To be continued....
A freelance Singapore-based travel photographer / photojournalist. I seek the extraordinary, but finds beauty in the everyday. Life is interesting, capture it.
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