Part 7: A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan - Treasure Hill Artist Village 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - 宝藏岩国际艺术村
Here goes the Part 7 of my recent trip to Taiwan: A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan - Treasure Hill Artist Village 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧 - 宝藏岩国际艺术村.
Home to veterans of the Chinese Civil War who fled to Taiwan with the Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) about 60 years ago, Treasure Hill used to be packed with aging and illegal structures built by the residents. Instead of bulldozing the whole site, the Taiwan government turned the area into a living artists village. It was officially opened in 2010 and now features art studios and exhibition spaces. Some families originally living in the area have come back to share the space with the many artists and tourists that have invaded the community now. Houses of stone and later of brick appeared along the hillside, forming a picturesque scene as they intermingled at different heights. Viewed from the outside, passerbys could see the little hilltop village standing in its solitude as if forgotten by the rest of the world.
在台北人文气息浓厚的台湾大学附近, 有一个昔日是违章建筑聚集的村落, 如今演变成台北最具特色的国际艺术村, 它就是拥有层层叠叠的狭窄屋舍, 保留着台北几代人居住记忆的宝藏岩. 半个多世纪前, 台北因城市急速发展而出现人口激增, 住宅短缺的窘况, 于是以铁皮屋, 砖瓦屋等为代表的违章建筑就成了台北以及台湾都市的普遍景观. 在台大, 台师大附近依山面水的宝藏岩就是违章建筑集中的村落之一. 这个曾居住国民党老兵的眷村拥有两百多户乱搭乱建的小屋, 这些简陋的屋子拼凑交迭, 在山坡上勾勒出错落有致, 栉比鳞次的线条. 几十年过后, 台北已是高楼林立的国际化都市, 曾经低矮的房屋已无处可寻, 当人们找寻起旧时生活, 居住的记忆时, 巷弄蜿蜒, 阶梯起落, 层层叠叠如燕巢的宝藏岩再一次进入公众的眼帘.
宝藏岩国际艺术村, 从台北捷运公馆站下车, 一出站, 沿途的指标就指引前往方向, 不用担心方位迷失, 带着满满的好奇心, 走一段微陡的山路, 经过停车场再继续往前, 就会看到宝藏岩佛寺, 再继续前进, 就是宝藏岩国际艺术村的所在地.
Starting from here, like playing with a curled-up treasure map, i walked along the winding trail that leads to the top of the hill step by step. Public artworks painted on the walls along the way portray little details of city life in Taiwan. The beautiful views on the walls lead visitors towards Treasure Hill and help them forget their fatigue from walking.
停车场旁边的马路墙上画满了彩绘, 循着这些五颜六色的彩绘走, 就可以到达我的目的地 - 宝藏岩. 简单的线条, 将我们日常生活刻画出来, 不只是艺术, 更贴近了我的心. 很难想像, 在喧嚣的公馆商圈附近, 还有这么一个幽静的地方.
座落於入口的宝藏岩寺, 好像守护着整个村落, 矗立在此.
Taking its name from the Buddhist temple of the same name in the community, which was built 300 years 宝藏岩. Treasure Hill is every bit as alluring as its name.
At the Artist Village inside the Treasure Hill Settlement, special patterns are imprinted on houses, and their distinctive, small and varied rooms divide the space into areas for different uses, such as offices and exhibition spaces, as well as live-in studios where artists can focus on their creations. As artists integrate local characteristics into their creations, they develop a special feeling that is intimately human and "happening now".
来进宝藏岩必需轻声细语, 放低音量, 因为其中还是有居民居住在这里.
依山而建的宝藏岩聚落地形属於山城结构, 在蜿蜒的巷弄间, 也会看到许多阶梯. 我就在这巷弄间, 上上下下的探索着. 我试着想象当年的情景: 部队和民众突然之间大量涌入宝藏岩, 为求生存, 他们趁着月黑风高, 利用方便取得的建材, 慢慢建构出属於自己的简陋房舍. 後来移入的居民, 也多半在资源有限的情况下, 以低廉, 回收的建材, 从河边运来一点砂石, 别处用剩下的红砖等等, 东拼西凑搭起自己的居住空间. 所以, 这里的一屋一瓦, 一砖一墻, 无不反映出住户们当年自力更生的精神与过程. 他们根据生活需要随时调整房舍得样貌, 今年多盖一层阁楼, 明年多搭一间仓库, 再过一年又多了道楼梯. 如此变形虫式的屋子比比皆是, 也不得不令人佩服人类为求生存时, 能激发的潜力有多强.
Many of the galleries are right next door to actual people’s homes, blurring the lines on what’s accessible and what’s not.
偶尔在住家之中, 会发现艺术家进驻的工作室, 与聚落形成混居的模式, 也因为如此, 让我有寻宝的感觉, 不知下一个转角是不是又会看到令人惊奇的艺术园地.
If you like art enclaves, you will appreciate Treasure Hill with its unique mix of residential units and art studios on the hillside. Don’t travel on the main footpath though, you may not see much of the place. Be sure instead to wind up and down the narrow alleys and stairs.
Art, however, is not confined within the studios. It spills onto the walls and grounds of the village. This is what I like most about Treasure Hill – being able to stumble upon art in unexpected spaces.
The unique location of Treasure Hill with its narrow alleys and stairways traversing the hillside, gives Treasure Hill Artist Village a European rural village feel. Over the years, various groups settled the hillside with their own lifestyles and needs creating a tribal-like organic scene. The site sits in the unique historical settlement of village style where awaits to be explored by the artists to put creativities in.
As you walk through Treasure Hill, you can't help but note that necessity is the mother of invention. Cast-off wood, tiles, bricks, sheet metal, plastic and cardboard have been turned into the building blocks of "home-made" homes.
宝藏岩的巷弄错综复杂到了极点, 蜿蜒曲折的小径, 绵延不断的阶梯, 形状迥异, 大小不一的各式广场, 建构成宝藏岩独特的聚落景观. 行走在这样一个具有历史地位的聚落里, 一定要够细心, 才能看到许多新旧事物交替的轨迹.
走进宝藏严, 不想停下脚步, 只想快快往前探索. 装置艺术与民家的界限似有若无, 或许是公同生活, 稍不留神, 就会错过许多精采角落. 看到尖蚪后, 依然没有停下脚步.
尖蚪是在宝藏严寻宝时的一个惊奇. 共有二层楼, 空间不大, 但也不觉得拥挤. 招牌尖蚪二字, 毛笔字体, 让人显得阔朗. 为什麽叫做尖蚪呢? 而我们只是在只小蝌蚪在遇到压力的时後还是会尖叫, 虽然现在我们还微不足道, 但我们会很努力的向上茁壮, 尖蚪脸书上是这麽说的. 在稍早前, 经过了宝藏严的服务据点, 内设有可爱的咖啡吧.
Best secret bistro hidden in Taipei city - Tadpole Point Cafe. Tadpole Point is a quaint, vintage-style cafe located in Treasure Hill Artist Village.
宝藏岩聚落里的店家都好低调, 招牌都小小一个, 很有气质. 尖蚪也不例外, 方方正正的白底写着歪歪斜斜的黑色毛笔字体, 彷佛弯弯曲曲的小蝌蚪在这个充满方圆规矩的世界中力争上游一般. 踏上几个简单的阶梯, 推开已经不多见的纱门, 映入眼簾的尽是一个老东西集合的空间. 尖蚪位在公馆的宝藏岩里, 其实不难被注意到, 白色的底衬着黑色手写字, 再加上宝藏岩里极具特色的高低式小建筑, 融合了眷村及艺术气息.
Treasure Hill Artist Village is built somewhat vertically on the side of a hill. Of course, the further you head up, the more spectacular the view becomes.
If you enjoy clambering around, searching for hidden nooks and crannies, you are going to love Treasure Hill Artist Village. It’s like a massive gallery for different kinds of avant garde artworks spread across an old neighborhood and throughout an existing one.
In Taiwan, "illegal structure" used to be synonymous with "dirty" and "backward." Historical Treasure Hill, however, appears to have escaped that fate. In the wake of the last few years' debate over whether to tear it down, the community has been featured in The New York Times as one of Taiwan's must-see destinations and visited by a crew from Lonely Planet Television. Suddenly, this long-forgotten community has become the focus of a great deal of positive attention.
Most importantly, the community is to be preserved at its present location, its "disadvantaged residences" developed and integrated into an "arts village." These plans have granted Treasure Hill a new lease on life and mark the start of a new chapter in Taiwan's city planning. In Treasure Hill, i witnessed a beautiful transformation that attracts visitors from island-wide to memorize the history and at the same time to witness the success of community building that offer a better future of the entire community as well as promote creativity and space among talented artists.
宝藏岩带给了人什么? 就是一个 '回忆' 吧. 老朋友到这里怀念昔日生活场景, 年轻人则喜欢加之于老房子上的新东西, 如空间装置, 艺术表演, 文创产品.
居住在宝藏岩的位艺术家喜欢这里喧嚣包围中的宁静, 宁静中流淌的孤独, 在繁华和寂寞之间的往来, 成就了更多的艺术与人生之路. 宝藏岩的故事交织着老迈与新生, 过去与未来. 一个曾经面临拆除的老小区, 摇身一变成为国际艺术村. 宝藏岩是台北市第一处聚落型态的 '历史聚落'. 位在汀洲路 3 段的小山坡上, 因为地形景观的特殊性, 民居沿着山坡而建, 刻画出巷弄蜿蜒, 建筑体错落的山城风貌.
p/s: This Part 7 will be the last blog post on my recent Taiwan photography trip series on "A Glimpse of Old Streets in Modern Taiwan 台湾老街漫步遊, 怀旧". Please continue to stay tune for the next few blog posts on another story series on Taiwan. To be revealed soon......... :-)